Hirschen

We had bad luck. Instead of sitting in the spacious dining room, we had to take a seat at the cat table in the Stübli, because the Hirschen was packed once again. As always, patron Albi von Felten was omnipresent and bustling at the front of house, while in the kitchen, since autumn 2024, a new but familiar face stands out: Diego Fry, who was already a chef de partie here previously. His kitchen remains focused on regional produce from the area at the southern foot of the Jura mountains; however, the classic menu has been reduced in size, with the addition of a gourmet menu and a vegetarian menu. The amuse-bouches are still called Schnöiggerli: foam, tartare, and jelly made from Geneva cardy vegetables. There was also a pikeperch carpaccio served on coagulated egg yolk with mushrooms and cucumber essence. Truly magnificent was the inventive smoked garlic soup paired with blood orange sorbet and jelly. The harmonious main course also won us over: premium Söili from the Jura highlands, accompanied by a medley of feather cabbage, pear, rosehip, and gnocchi. Two desserts rounded off the evening: a refreshing pre-dessert of orange foam and orange granité, followed by a stunning crème brûlée with gin-infused cream and fruity apple sorbet. The establishment boasts a massive, multi-award-winning wine list and a wine cellar that simply couldn’t be more beautiful. The service, however, we have experienced more attentive and less frantic at the Hirschen in the past. We’ll chalk that up to the completely packed house.