Lekker500 — Top 500
We have to look around a bit before finding the modest entrance: it’s somewhat tucked away on the side. The interior is somewhat anonymous and colorless, and the view outside won’t exactly thrill you; it’s mostly brickwork from, among other things, the town hall. That doesn’t sound very positive, but Jan and Patricia Marrees more than make up for it with what they serve. Alongside a standard four- to seven-course menu, there is also a fully vegetable-based menu, where the chef truly shines. À la carte dining is also available, and if you’re quite hungry, there are various tasty “aperitif bites” to get you started. We opt for both the standard and the vegetable menu, giving us a good overview of everything coming out of the kitchen. What stands out is the rich flavor of the amuse-bouches, as well as that of all the other dishes. You can rightly call this “full of flavor.” Each amuse-bouche is vegetarian and melts in your mouth. From a crispy roll with a “tartare” of carrot and lentils, to a goat cheese mousse with diced beetroot and a leek cream, right through to a Parmesan crème brûlée with asparagus cappuccino and Cevenne onion. We are eager to try the first “real” course, during which Patricia pours an unusual wine: Polz Welschriesling 2022 from Styria, Austria. It pairs beautifully with both the kohlrabi roll with tuna tartare—a slice of tuna, tiger milk, citrus, and eucalyptus—and the cucumber mousse with a sesame seed crisp, pea, jalapeño, and piccalilli sauce. In between, soft-poached sea bass with an eel dumpling, lamb testicles, parsley, and vin jaune sauce. And roasted cauliflower with hazelnut cream, marinated purple and yellow cauliflower, cashew nuts, and myoga (Japanese ginger). We taste the wines for the main courses beforehand, and they are generously refilled since the main courses take their time. A fruity yet full-bodied El Perdiguero Cigales Crianza 2020 accompanies the roasted veal loin with green asparagus, onion, chanterelles, and summer truffle. And a lighter Prendo Pinot Nero 2022 by Wilhelm Walch from Tramin, Italy, served with a poached egg, morels, summer truffle, green asparagus, onion, and aged cheese. The standout dessert is a raspberry compote with fresh raspberries, elderflower bavarois, yogurt, lemon, and white chocolate. Not too sweet, with beautiful contrasts in flavor. A lovely spot.