Lekker500 — Top 500
During our visit on a Sunday afternoon, Heimat is filled with cheerful, predominantly younger guests. Further inquiry reveals that lunch culture has fully taken hold in Utrecht, especially on weekends. An upbeat atmosphere pervades the calmly designed interior, which pays close attention to natural tones. In the back left, we see the cooking team led by owner and head chef Niels van Zijl working in the semi-open kitchen, and their enjoyment clearly radiates from them. Niels, who cut his teeth at top restaurants such as De Librije (Zwolle) and Kadeau (Copenhagen), cooks with a deep love for nature and maintains a steady network of suppliers who share the same ethos. There is a multi-course menu that changes regularly. Together with co-owner, hostess, and sommelier Arline Bronkhorst, we search for a fine wine from the list, and our choice falls on a Spanish Attis Lías Finas Albariño from 2023. We have no regrets about this choice, as this chameleon wine adapts perfectly to every dish. Softly roasted North Sea langoustine tartare arrives with lime in an aromatic shellfish emulsion, alongside a dried tomato XO sauce, surrounded by strawberry broth and drops of rose oil. Fresh and refined, with an umami touch that perfects the dish. This is followed by a bread course featuring three sourdough-based varieties: baguette tradition, toasted brioche, and German country bread. Accompanying spreads include chive aioli garnished with edible flowers, whipped cream with sauerkraut, and miso butter with pickled chili peppers. Both the bread and the accompaniments taste delightful, and they are quite filling. The main course is vegetarian: creamy buckwheat tempeh with grilled oak mushroom, plus a celery root and Dutch soy reduction, celery root mousseline, hazelnut, and an airy foam. This makes us want to eat vegetarian every day. We finish with a meadowsweet cream accompanying a chamomile-infused cake, a grilled apricot, almond crunch, and a sauce of honey and bee pollen. What a feast. Right on the threshold of the Top-100.