Lekker500 — Top 500
A staple in this guide for years, and rightly so. Here, chef-owner Marko Karelse prepares a highly balanced French cuisine featuring top-quality ingredients and a focus on pure flavors. The atmosphere is relaxed in the luxurious white villa, which is divided into two dining rooms separated by glass doors. The decor is atmospheric, featuring shades of grey accented with patterned wallpaper. Tables are dressed with skirts, the cutlery is silver, and the glasses are sparkling and ultra-thin. The upholstered armchairs are comfortable. The menu offers several options, including the Prestige Menu featuring classics such as lobster, foie gras, turbot, and wagyu entrecôte, alongside a seasonal menu, a fully vegetarian menu, and à la carte selections. The wine list is extensive, featuring selections from both the Old and New Worlds. However, the knowledgeable maître d' and sommelier, Gerrit de Koe, can just as easily reach beyond the list to pull a fine bottle from the surprise cellar. We sample a lush and aromatic 2023 Cave Yves Cuilleron Les Vignes d'à Côte, made from 100% Viognier, which proves to be the perfect accompaniment to the lunch menu. The amuse of herring tartare with wakame, poultry cream, and beetroot mousse is bold yet incredibly flavorful. The first course features ceviche of freshly caught sea bass served in generous slices, accompanied by avocado cream, dollops of roasted red pepper mayonnaise, watermelon pearls, pleated cherry tomatoes, and marinated cucumber ribbons, all drizzled tableside with a gazpacho dressing. Beautiful contrasts between sweet and tangy notes. This is followed by an aromatic bisque containing lobster-stuffed ravioli, paper-thin crostini, and irresistibly delicious rouille. For the main course, there's a succulent piece of pan-seared roe deer, served with gnocchi, Swiss chard salad, golden beet, confit cherries, and caramelized onions. A fermented garlic jus ties everything together perfectly. Our verdict: keep up the excellent work, Mr. Karelse!