Bij Erik

With a beautiful view of the small locks of Leidschendam, chef Max Grootendorst serves an extensive selection of dishes, which is always enjoyable and further enhances the pleasure of being able to choose freely. For example, he starts by offering oysters in three...

good quality, good value cooking

The owner of this restaurant, Erik Tas, can now frequently be found at his fine dining establishment ’t Ganzenest in Rijswijk. His team, with chef Max Grootendorst behind the stove, takes charge of service during his absences. The menu features French dishes, including several classics, is reasonably priced, and offers plenty of options for sharing. The wine list is international, with a generous selection available by the glass. It was quiet on the weekday evening of our visit, and the host on duty enjoys a good chat. The recommended Australian sparkling Azahara served as an aperitif is excellent—rich, full-bodied, and generously poured. It also pairs wonderfully with the amuse-bouches: a crispy filo pastry horn with gruyère cream and a sesame cup with piccalilli. A promising start. Unfortunately, we were less impressed by the undersized langoustines, which came with too much shell and little meat, accompanied by a flavorful salsa verde that was, however, generously plated. The pistachio pâté en croûte was on the drier side and served with classic Cumberland sauce and marinated apricot. Fortunately, the main courses made up for it. The asparagus was cooked to perfection, paired with beautiful morels, lamb kidneys, and an excellent mushroom sauce. The signature shallot tarte tatin with a generous portion of foie gras, Pata Negra, and apple jus also proved delightful. Applause is also due for the cheese course, served with fig compote, nut bread, homemade spice cake, apple syrup, and grapes. Next time, we hope to be able to give every single dish another top mark.

Chef Max Grootendorst proves himself a capable chef at the friendly restaurant Bij Erik in Leidschendam. Owner Erik Tas, who is also the patron of ’t Ganzenest in Rijswijk, oversees operations, but the execution by the chef and his team is exemplary. The welcome is warm and hospitable. There is no issue with tap water; we notice a very modest charge for it on the bill. From the extensive wine list, which features predominantly steeply priced labels—though it could certainly use more variety—we opt for a Brugnon Brut champagne. It is served in an elegant wine glass, allowing the soft, fresh mousse to truly come into its own. The menu features charcuterie, oysters, cold and warm bites, chef’s tasting menus, and à la carte dishes. Such generous choice is something we rarely come across these days. Another special and enjoyable touch is the dedicated attention given to the cheese course, with specific cheeses named and explained. The first course is a tom pouce featuring raw tuna sliced generously alongside wakame, resting on paper-thin filo pastry and dressed tableside with a soy-sesame vinaigrette. This is followed by a chicken roulade stuffed with morels, accompanied by a small tower of pommes dauphinoise topped with a sharp, crispy parmesan tuile, along with a quenelle of gently cooked savoy cabbage. In the glass, a crisp, well-structured 2018 Chardonnay from Weingut Hain. Kudos to the service staff, who are unobtrusive, friendly, and exceptionally attentive. A fine establishment.

Bij Erik has moved to an adjacent building at the Sluisjes in Leidschendam. The restaurant looks fresh, modern, and spacious. Dining takes place at both low and high tables that are positioned quite closely together. During our visit, the namesake was not present, as he is increasingly working at his other restaurant, ’t Ganzenest, in Rijswijk. Fortunately, his team, under the direction of chef Max Grootendorst, is working seamlessly. The menu consists of eight dishes from which you can choose a four- to eight-course meal. Accompanying the aperitif, a San Michele Soave Classico 2021 from Ca' Rugate in Italy, comes a ridiculously delicious puff pastry filled with Comté cheese cream from the Jura region as a little palate pleaser. A fine start. For the starter, there is a generous and perfectly temperatureed slice of pâté en croûte made from Livar pork mince, blended with beetroot and wild herbs. Our friendly and knowledgeable host and sommelier, Sam Grimbergen, recommends pairing it with a glass of 2019 German Spätburgunder from the Baden-Württemberg region, and it proves to be a perfect match. We continue our culinary journey with perfectly pink-roasted beef tenderloin served with a jus made from roasted garlic, potato gratin, and fried onions. Top-tier bistro dining. We cannot resist and order Erik’s signature dish as an intermezzo: lightly pan-seared duck liver on raisin bread. The slice of raisin bread is topped with sauerkraut mixed with an apple syrup jus, which effectively neutralizes the sourness of the cabbage. Crowning it is a (small) slice of lightly cooked duck liver. In our view, it could have been a bit more generous. The pace of service is pleasant. And the same goes for the bill.

Cooking remains truly excellent at Erik Tas on the Sluisjes in Leidschendam, although the owner himself is increasingly found at his new establishment in Rijswijk. Yet his carefully assembled team of black and white brigade members operates as if the master himself were present. Here is a monthly rotating menu that follows the seasons. You can choose how many courses you would like. In addition, there are signature dishes from the chef. Vegetarian options must be requested. Hostess Cindy van der Hulst, also a skilled sommelier, quickly brings us a lovely glass of Deutz champagne, and after three beautiful amuse-bouches, we begin with a juicy scallop featuring cauliflower textures presented as a cream, rose-shaped pieces fried in beurre noisette and couscous, topped with a hazelnut crumb and a frothy beurre blanc. Truffle is generously shaved over the dish at the table. Sublime! The same applies to the hand-cut wagyu tartare with wasabi cream and sourdough croquant. Made from top-quality ingredients and beautifully balanced in flavor. Chefs Max Grootendorst and Thierry Dunant clearly know their craft. In the glass, a fine, distinctive 2018 Riesling Van Volxem Wiltinger, recommended to us by the young but talented assistant sommelier Sam Grimbergen. A name to watch. Paired with the finish of the Riesling, we indulge in two perfectly complementary cheeses. Chanteraine, a triple cream cheese from Île-de-France, and a twelve-month aged Veerse sheep's milk cheese, served with accompaniments of baked nut bread, grape salad with hazelnuts, apricot compote, and a citrus marmalade. The portions are generous, the service attentive, and the bill? It’s surprisingly reasonable given the quality offered. By the time this guide appears, Bij Erik has moved into the larger adjacent building on the Sluisjes. From now on, between lunch and dinner, guests can enjoy a good glass of wine along with tasty bites such as mussels, razor clams, or other small snacks.

Chef-owner Erik Tas has now been running his restaurant on the Sluisjes in Leidschendam for seven years. It is located along the Vliet (the Rhine-Schie Canal that cuts through the village) and right in the heart of the nightlife district created there, which draws visitors from a wide surrounding area. Erik spent years as sous-chef to Erik van Loo (at Parkheuvel) and before that worked as a cook at De Zwethheul and Paul van Waarden. He brings star-studded experience to the table, and you can taste it in his tiny restaurant, which he is helping establish alongside maître-sommelier Cindy Holt. We begin with amuse-bouches such as a sesame tuile with piccalilli, rice paper with curry, crispy chicken skin with corn and popcorn, and a pastry cone filled with tomato mousse and olive crumb. Wow! The tone is set: this is proper cooking. We take sips of our Savennières made from French Chenin Blanc grapes, Plessis, 2017, and continue with belly pork accompanied by duck liver, langoustine, ginger, sweet-and-sour cucumber, and Szechuan jus: a straight-up flavor bomb that pairs perfectly with our mature Loire wine. Also served are herring with a brandade of salted cod and a delightful vichyssoise. The pièce de résistance is baked sea bass with mussels, fennel, baby carrots, and beach crab sauce; on the other plate, lamb dumplings with fine vegetables, preserved lemon, and piping hot dashi broth poured tableside. Dishes to savor! Finally, a generously curated cheese dessert featuring unexpected tasting cards from both domestic and international producers.

A cozy, atmospheric laneway by the lock in the heart of Leidschendam. For the past five years, owner-chef Erik Tas has been crafting exceptionally high-quality cuisine here. This comes as no surprise, considering he spent years working as sous chef under Erik van Loo at Restaurant Parkheuvel in Rotterdam. What is remarkable, however, is that all this excellence is achieved within just a few square meters, as the open kitchen where Erik works alongside his chefs, Leon Bok and Max Grootendorst, is remarkably compact. Yet this limited space has absolutely no impact on the dining experience, as everything presented—primarily Dutch ingredients sourced locally—is rich in flavor, perfectly balanced, and stunningly plated. Erik refreshes his menu monthly, and guests are free to choose how many courses they would like. The charming sommelier, Cindy Holt, expertly suggests wonderful wine pairings to complement each choice. Erik Tas explains, “We travel to Germany, Luxembourg, and other regions a few times a year to personally select our wines and discover new wineries.” With over 350 labels waiting to be tasted in the wine cellar and a selection that is constantly evolving, this is undoubtedly a destination that deserves a permanent spot on your culinary calendar.

Owner-chef Erik Tas was for years the sous-chef of Erik van Loo at Parkheuvel in Rotterdam. He brings star-level experience, which you can taste in his tiny restaurant by the lock in Leidschendam. Together with master sommelier Cindy Holt, he delights local and regional gourmets. We begin with a glass of Les Grès Chardonnay from the Languedoc alongside aperitif bites such as a macaron with goat cheese cream and roasted pepper; sesame tuile with piccalilli mousse; puff pastry with herb salsa and anchovy; and lobster mousse with pickle brine jelly and pickled cucumber crisp. Plus an amuse-bouche of belly pork glazed with hoisin and ginger, and roasted langoustine with seared duck liver. Delicious first courses! We move on to a white Rhône wine: a Marsanne from Louis Chèze paired with raw tuna with cucumber sweet and sour, dashi gel, mango cream, and red piment. And tapioca crackers with cucumber foam and coriander oil. Just as impressive is grilled halibut with leek hearts, hazelnuts, cauliflower florets baked in brown butter, sauerkraut foam, and fish jus with capers. Simply top-notch throughout. The main course features American beef with potato gratin, green and purple Brussels sprouts, glazed pearl onions, and red wine jus with fresh green peppers. Finished with a surprising cheese plate (Valençay, Banon, Tomme des Alpes, and Herve) and a glass of excellent Luxembourg red. Impressive quality. The wine list is extensive but pricey.

Around the cozy canals of Leidschendam, there is a choice of various restaurants. The owner-chef Erik Tas of restaurant Bij Erik oversees three of them. But his home base is this small, atmospherically decorated establishment with 25 seats. Here, he personally oversees the kitchen and offers a single menu where guests can choose how many courses they want. The dishes, featuring a touch of French charm and subtle Eastern hints, are freshly prepared using seasonal ingredients. Creativity leaps off the plate. After several delicious amuse-bouches, we begin the menu with kohlrabi ravioli stuffed with crab, served alongside a crisp radish and apple salad and a light lemongrass-curry sauce. The presentation is stunning, and the flavors are perfectly balanced. The accompanying Verdejo from Rueda pairs beautifully. Next comes lightly pan-seared skrei cod atop a macedoine of shiitake mushrooms, snow peas, and bean sprouts, finished with a foamy lemongrass sauce. For the signature dish—crispy pork belly glazed with hoisin, served with perfectly cooked liver, langoustine, and fresh sweet-and-sour cucumber—we gladly pay the extra charge. Goodness, that was absolutely delicious. The paired wine, a Plavac PZ Svirce Otok Havr from Croatia, is less successful. It’s too harsh, too herbaceous, and overly tannic. The same goes for the Muscat de Rivesaltes served with the dessert of chocolate mousse, sorbet, and white chocolate sauce. The wine simply cannot stand up to this complex flavor explosion. The extensive cheese trolley is truly mouthwatering. The selections are explained with expertise and enthusiasm.