Lekker500 — 51
It is a sensory feast when you dine at the charming restaurant Onder de Linden, home to owner-chef Stefan Klein Nijenhuis, located in an old converted farmhouse with a thatched roof. We sit comfortably in armchairs by Groningen designer Melle Koot, at tables draped in leather sheets that are generously spaced. The kitchen, led by executive chef Falk van Essen, focuses on sustainable gastronomy and distinctive ingredients, resulting in outstanding flavor combinations. Every wine and food pairing is surprising and of unprecedented culinary caliber. No dairy is used, beef is not on the menu, and numerous fermented elements await tasting. The welcome bites set the tone immediately: beetroot with ponzu, piccalilli foam, and beetroot liquorice bursts with umami, while hedgehog mushroom foam with truffle coulis and a 64-degree egg holds its own. Freshly baked sourdough bread served with homemade plant-based butter deserves applause. A set menu offers up to eight courses. Razor clam tartare with roasted Jerusalem artichoke, lime leaf, paper-thin sliced green apple, pickled celery, seaweed cream, and razor clam and lemon juice is extremely refined, with flavors perfectly harmonized. The mineral German Silvaner Rainer Sauer from 2023 VDP Erste Lage, with its soft, round acidity, pairs seamlessly with it. Leave that to hostess and gifted sommelier Caroline de Vries. The braised duck breast main course rests on al dente ravioli stuffed with leg meat, accompanied by a Chinese-style shellfish sauce, all bathed in an aromatic poultry fond flavored with star anise, cinnamon, sesame, and chive oil. We finish with chocolate mousse and pumpkin with pumpkin seed praline, sea buckthorn berry ice cream drizzled with a sea buckthorn berry and pumpkin seed oil vinaigrette, and a garam masala sugar sculpture. We are overwhelmed by such innovation. Meanwhile, the menu has become even more sustainable, local, and accessible by eliminating luxury imported products and placing regional ingredients at the forefront. Score rises to 51.