De Stroper

Located on the canal in historic Dordrecht, De Stroper occupies a charming corner building overlooking the bridge. The interior somewhat detracts from the location. It feels somewhat stark, and we miss the expected maritime touch. Chef Kevin van Asch’s kitchen is centered around fish, with a French influence. The menu features a specialty tasting menu of four to six courses, a monthly menu, and a few à la carte options. We start with an amuse: a crisp cup filled with a pea and mint mousse with smoked eel. A bit flat. The baguette with whipped butter is simple yet refined. Next comes the exceptionally fresh sea bass with sweet-and-sour shallots, celeriac, pomegranate, and shimeji mushrooms, complemented by a vinaigrette of fermented rhubarb, wild garlic, and carrot that provides a nice balance. Beautifully presented. The scallops are also nicely cooked, served on lentils and asparagus, although the portion of lentils is somewhat dominant. The accompanying 2022 Domaine Loew from Alsace pairs well. Among the mains, the bouillabaisse misses the mark: flat in flavor, lacking accompaniments, and failing to do justice to the classic from southern France. The halibut fares better, served with a creamy sauce of smoked butter, sweet potato, and beet. The following cheese board is generous, but the choice of a Nero d’Avola doesn’t quite work. Conversely, the crème brûlée is excellent: silky smooth with a crisp caramelized top and delicious vanilla ice cream. Service is overseen by owner Mark Bakker. The young team is friendly but still lacks some experience. De Stroper boasts a unique location, and with greater attention to detail and hospitality, we see plenty of potential.

This fish restaurant at the Wijnbrug, established in 1987, has grown into a staple of the city center. Owner and sommelier Mark Bakker, who took it over in 2023, sets the bar quite high. The generously portioned bouillabaisse with gruyère and rouille...

In their beautiful old building at the Dordrecht wine harbor, we receive a warm welcome from the kitchen brigade of De Stroper. Upon entering, you're practically standing in the kitchen! Once seated in the cozy restaurant, we opt for the five-course menu. The fact that this place focuses on fish is clearly evident from the fish silhouettes on the wall in the otherwise simply furnished establishment. Chef Kevin van Asch has been running the show here since autumn 2023. That he knows how to prepare fish, we taste right away with our first dish: smoked mackerel with fennel salad and a harissa cream. The mackerel is lightly pickled and still firm, pairing perfectly with the paper-thin shaved fennel and slightly spicy harissa cream. Crispy pine nuts, pomegranate seeds, and crunchy homemade melba toast provide a lovely texture. Next comes another mackerel-like fish, but prepared completely differently: briefly seared, almost raw hamachi, beautifully combined with tiger milk mousse and various types of raw and pickled radishes. Puffed wild rice grains add extra crunch and a nutty flavor. We continue with a piece of crispy-fried pollack on green cabbage with a slightly sweet purée of romanesco and bell pepper, and a foamy beurre blanc. A great match with the Spanish Carrasviñas Verdejo from Rueda. The other main course is sea bass with potato balls, cauliflower, smoked bimi, hazelnuts, and an oriental sauce. It was the least successful dish of the evening, due to the somewhat overpowering teriyaki-like sauce and the fact that the fish skin wasn't crispy. We wrap up with yet another outstanding dish: crème fraîche ice cream with apple and lingonberry compote, bastogne cookies, pecans, and white chocolate. The ice cream is wonderfully creamy, the compote refreshingly sweet and tart, and the combination with crunchy cookies, chocolate, and nuts is heavenly! That they truly excel in desserts is proven once again with the coffee and pastries. Rarely have I enjoyed such delicious butter cake and brownie. The former features a hint of orange, while the latter is topped with caramel and sea salt.

Gelegen in hartje Dordrecht aan de historische gracht naast de Wijnbrug. Restaurant De Stroper is sinds jaar en dag een geliefde trekpleister voor de liefhebber van vis. Mark Bakker, al jaren maître-sommelier heeft sinds 1 januari 2023 het stokje overgenomen van chef Edwin Roestenberg. Mitchel de Deugd is aangebleven als chef-kok en waarborgt de pure smaken van de gerechten die de kleine open keuken verlaten. Hier wordt louter duurzaam gevangen vis gebruikt en het team is steunpilaar van The Ocean Cleanup. We worden hartelijk ontvangen in een huiselijke sfeer. Het is druk met vooral gezelschappen van vier gasten die de keuken van Mitchel op waarde weten te schatten. Gastheer en sommelier Mark imponeert met zijn uitgebreide wijnkennis en kent alle geserveerde gerechten van binnen en van buiten. Bij een cava brut rosé van Parés Baltà snoepen we van malse oesters van de Oesterij in Yerseke. Vooraf geroosterde tonijn met diverse tomaatsoorten en kerrie-basilicumvinaigrette. Pijnboompitjes geven knapperigheid. We vervolgen met gegrilde snoekbaars met paddenstoelen en parmezaanschuim met garnituur van doperwtjes, orzo en een krokant. Hoofdgerecht is precies goed gaargebakken kabeljauw, vergezeld gaand van lamsoor, zeekraal en zeewierkroepoek. Lekker met de zalvige aardappelmousseline en verrassend door het zoetzure passievruchtensausje dat bijna de elegante smaak van de kabeljauw tenietdoet. We sluiten af met frisse aardbeien-basilicummousse dat als een kunstwerkje op het bord verschijnt. Fijn adres, niet in de laatste plaats door de oprecht fijne benadering van het hele team.

De Stroper is one of the oldest truly culinary restaurants in Dordrecht. A popular spot on the canal where wine ships from Germany and France used to dock, housed in a 17th-century building built over the water. From here, a whisper boat departs for tours along the harbors, historic houses, and (wine) warehouses of this oldest city in Holland. With its 45 seats, De Stroper serves almost exclusively fish dishes, and it’s a wonder that all of it comes from such a small kitchen. Owner-chef Edwin Roestenberg, who is also co-owner of Brasserie Post elsewhere in the city center, relies entirely on his brigade, led by head chef Mitchel de Deugd and the skilled master sommelier Mark Bakker. We feast on Bouchot mussels in a wheat beer broth with tomato and chorizo, served from a bowl placed right in the middle of the table. Lovely! We pair it with a Verdejo from Rueda, the Carrasviñas by Bodegas Félix Lorenzo Cachazo. Crisp, wood-aged, and fruity. This is followed by homemade croquettes made with Dutch shrimp served with tarragon mayonnaise, alongside classic, delicious shrimp cocktails. The main course is halibut. A massive chunk (slightly too dry) resting on a fragrant and flavorful blend of Indonesian fish soup, pandan rice, coconut, and mussel mayonnaise with passion fruit. To finish, small cheeses from the villages around Dordrecht paired with glasses of sparkling cava. A pleasant spot in the Merwestad.

A popular fish restaurant in the heart of Holland's oldest city, situated above the canal where wine barrels from France and Germany were unloaded in the 16th and 17th centuries. A square room with an acoustic ceiling and a small semi-open kitchen. Owner-chef Edwin Roestenberg stands behind the stove himself and surprises our party. After a few freshly shucked oysters as an aperitif bite with a glass of champagne, he presents alternating grilled tuna with carrot and cucumber atjar, boemboe bali cream, and passion fruit vinaigrette. On the other plates: shrimp croquettes with tom ka kai and Kentjor mayonnaise, alongside sea bass sashimi with pickled ginger, wasabi, and tomasu soy sauce. Delicious starters. We pair them with a tasty Chardonnay from Louis Jadot (Couvent des Jacobins, 2020). After an intermezzo of North Sea delicacies (scallops, squid, shellfish), we move on to perfectly cooked cod with saffron risotto, artichoke, cherry tomato, almond, and green asparagus in a mussel jus. And for another diner, a classic 'old-fashioned' bouillabaisse: hot, savory, salty, creamy, and filled with various types of fish, sweet-and-sour tomatoes, and basil, served with a classic rouille. In the glass now, a slightly 'richer' Chardonnay (Bogle, 2020) from California. Finally, regional cheeses with a sweet accompaniment. A wonderful establishment, with prompt service.

Packed every day: De Stroper has become an indispensable culinary destination in the Merwestad. Located on the oldest canal, in a 17th-century building with seating for just under fifty guests. Four chefs in the kitchen and four waitresses in service—these are the cornerstones of the empire run by chef-owner Edwin Roestenberg, who is also co-owner of Brasserie Post, located just outside the city center. We enjoy a glass of sparkling grand cru champagne (Conversation, Jean-Louis Vergnon) blanc de blancs, made purely from Chardonnay grapes, paired with a few fines de Normandie oysters: crisp, fresh, and zesty. Followed by house-made croquettes of Holland shrimp with tarragon mayonnaise. Delicious starters. Next up in the glass is a Pouilly-Fuissé from Domaine Thibert, a toasted and buttery-tasting Burgundy, served alongside raw marinated salmon colored with red cabbage. Accompanied by red cabbage cream, confit beets, beet ketchup, cranberry compote, and balsamic vinaigrette. We miss the inviting pink hue of typical salmon, but the flavor is superb. The main course also earns applause: perfectly cooked cod with fennel cream and roasted fennel, marinated kohlrabi, saffron vinaigrette, and mussel sauce. And finally, cheeses from the green villages around Dordrecht. Excellent all around.

A picturesque fish restaurant in the heart of Dordrecht on the historic canal next to the Wijnbrug. The name is derived from the founder, who regularly went eel fishing in the Biesbosch. Today, patron-chef Edwin Roestenberg prioritizes sustainable catches and is a supporter of ‘The Ocean Cleanup’. The house aperitif of red vermouth served with ginger ale, ice cubes, and a slice of orange tastes delicious. After a while, we are served delicious fresh baguette, thinly sliced, along with the menu. We start with thinly sliced raw scallops with wild carrot, chermoula, and a garam masala sauce. Salty, sweet, and sour, combined with the herbs it makes a flavorful little dish. We accompany it with a glass of Pouilly-Fumé from Domaine Jeannot, featuring a full, rich taste with balanced acidity. For the main course, we go for Dutch cod with a celery root cream, mandarin, and lardo with a verjus-based dressing, alongside halibut with paella negra, eggplant, romesco, squid confit, and a jus made from confit garlic. The cod is perfectly cooked (beautifully translucent), allowing you to still taste its salinity, whereas the halibut is somewhat overcooked. What a pity. We pair this with a lightly chilled Italian Pinot Noir from the Wilhelm Walch house wine. The service is not entirely flawless. We have to ask twice for the menu, and what is completely unacceptable is that we overhear them talking about the guests.