Karels

A cozy living-room restaurant with overnight accommodation situated on the famous Pieterpad. Chef-owner Paskal and his wife, hostess and sommelier Layla Karels (hence the restaurant’s name), have already dedicated countless hours to pampering their guests. The kitchen serves classic-modern cuisine crafted from seasonal and regional produce, complemented by an extensive wine list, part of which is directly imported by Karels herself. Paired with a delightful Karels Cuvée Champagne Brut Premier Cru, appetizing amuse-bouches take us on a brief culinary journey through the birthplaces of the chef and the hostess. We taste an amuse featuring Edam cheese, a nod to Edam, the chef’s hometown. A second amuse with eel tells the story of hostess Layla from Volendam. Naturally, there is also an amuse representing the Achterhoek region: a tartelette of puffed potato and fermented black garlic. With each subsequent dish served, a small explanatory card is placed at the table. The wines are carefully selected and pair perfectly with the food, creating surprising flavor combinations. Such as the white Rioja Abel Mendoza served with the ray wing and octopus dish, cauliflower foam, smoked almond, and chive oil. Make room for the generous selection of cheeses on the trolley. The little spoon-shaped cheese from Zevenaar scores highly. Paired with it, a Muscat Barcelona reveals notes of elderflower. A true feast for the taste buds. Finally, the price-to-quality ratio is exemplary. A venue we would gladly return to.

In one of the remote corners of the Netherlands, close to the German border, we find this lovely place with relatively simple rooms and excellent beds. The restaurant, on the other hand, exudes luxury and comfort. The hotel has eight rooms...

Karels, named after the surnames of owner-chef Paskal and his wife, hostess and sommelier Layla, is located in the beautiful Montferland region, specifically in Braamt. In 2022, they turned their dream of opening their own restaurant into reality, and they now boast a loyal clientele alongside many visitors who combine a culinary visit with enjoying the scenic surroundings. The Pieterpad hiking trail, for instance, runs literally right next to the restaurant. This young and ambitious couple certainly isn’t standing still, as Paskal and Layla also operate Karels Hotel alongside the restaurant, and have recently introduced a coffee corner where guests can enjoy daytime coffee, a fine glass of wine, or a cocktail, optionally accompanied by savory bites. Paskal prefers working with natural ingredients, and when autumn arrives, a complete wild game menu can be ordered. Several different menus and dining packages are available. One unforgettable dish is sole pan-fried in sourdough batter, served with red cabbage cream, butter and eel, pumpkin seeds, and their infused oil. It is a pure taste sensation, leaving the plate nearly licked clean. Another standout and chef’s signature dish is veal escalope, crispy on the outside and velvety soft within, served with an aromatic veal jus, forest carrots, and birch sap. So let this dynamic duo happily settle in Braamt, even though they once loudly proclaimed they would never leave North Holland. Fortunately, they have since revised that stance. A top destination.

At the foot of the popular Bergherbos in the picturesque Montferland region, Paskal and Layla Karels have established an outstanding restaurant in a remarkably short time. Brimming with ambition yet devoid of pretension, a combination that perfectly suits this couple, originally from North Holland. The chef draws abundant inspiration from the stunning natural surroundings and maintains a sharp focus on exceptional local and regional produce. Hostess and sommelier Layla is ably assisted by Jeremy Stoutjesdijk, who willingly and knowledgeably guides diners through the chosen wines. On Mondays and Thursdays, guests can take advantage of a particularly appealing package that includes a glass of sparkling wine to begin. Here, it is the distinctive Monte Tondo Soave brut that accompanies the amuse-bouche progression. It presents a jelly ring of padron peppers alongside a slice of tiger tomato and green gazpacho. Standout elements include a delicate crisp and a keverbean mousse, featuring a rare purple-black bean cultivated exclusively in this region. These serve as enticing previews of what follows, as Paskal is truly an exceptional cook. The first course features raw yellowtail kingfish dressed in buttermilk, lemon, and green herb oil, accompanied by slender ribbons of asparagus and cucumber, winter purslane, Roman chervil, and house-made crème fraîche. We accompany it with a bone-dry Riesling from Georg Mosbacher 2021 from the Pfalz. Next comes a tribute to Volendam, the hostess’s hometown: pea mousse with smoked eel suspended in a light dashi foam. An outstanding dish matched with a full, coating wine that complements the eel perfectly: Grand Marrenon Luberon 2021 from the Rhône. Served alongside the roasted saddle of lamb in its own jus is a savory polenta bitterballen with aged local goat cheese. Simply delicious. La Forcallà de Antonia from Valencia proves to be the ideal pairing: supple yet packed with character. It is evident that the Netherlands’ culinary scene has gained another premier destination.

Owner-chef Paskal and his wife, master sommelier Layla Karels, have taken over the former Mezzo from Wendy and Berry van de Ven. Karels is the new name of their hotel and restaurant. As for the interior and layout of the dining room in a living-room setting, there have been no major changes. The kitchen is on another level entirely. Paskal prepares classic French cuisine with a modern twist, relying predominantly on regional produce. A multi-course menu is offered that changes quite frequently. Layla selects beautiful and complementary wines to pair with it, mostly from Old World countries. We choose the six-course menu and accompanying wine pairing to sample what the new chef and sommelier have to offer. Well, the short version is: it is excellent in every way. During the aperitif, accompanied by a 2021 Rocca Maura Chardonnay, lovely starters are served, such as a Zeeland flat oyster with grapefruit granita and a fresh beet mousse. Then a true spectrum of flavors arrives at the table. We taste Karel's eel in green sauce, an incredible combination of the eel's richness and the smoky sauce, with a nod to Volendam, where the hostess hails from. This is followed by perfectly prepared veal sweetbreads on celeriac in a salt crust, along with riz de veau. The tender veal served with morels and green asparagus is also excellent. It is not cheap here, but the price-to-quality ratio is very well balanced.