Restaurant Azurite

Master Chef Mario Ridder of the SVH (former owner of Joulia in Rotterdam, owner of Lalou in Delft) doesn't mince words. With his new fine dining restaurant Azurite in the Huis van Delft, which seats up to 24 guests, he aims to reclaim his place at the top of Dutch gastronomy. And this matters immensely to him, if not absolutely everything. The spacious ambiance, crafted from natural materials and bathed in soft lighting, is stylish yet understated, ensuring all attention remains fixed on the cuisine. The table linen is handmade. The crockery is partly Delft blue, sourced from De Porceleyne Fles. In the open kitchen, chefs cook across three islands, highlighting Dutch flavors with seasonal produce. The wine collection is exceptional, boasting no fewer than 12,000 bottles, and his team operates as a tight unit under head sommelier Alain Rosier, maître Remko Bögemann, and several former colleagues in the kitchen. Right at the bar, the amuse-bouches (an ode to Dutch heritage) are freshly prepared and served on exquisite Delft blue crockery. Among them is Dutch smoked and pickled eel finished with a hazelnut emulsion and Baeri caviar. The seven-course dinner features live-caught hamachi in a grapefruit and rosewater vinaigrette with ginger and lemongrass, cradled in a coriander emulsion alongside citrus gel and sweet potato brunoise. A sophisticated flavor palette. The elegant German Riesling 2019 from Emrich-Schönleber, Halenberg, pairs beautifully. Juicy European lobster follows, accompanied by cauliflower purée, hazelnut crunch, lobster and hazelnut foam, and parsley coulis. What a masterpiece. Roasted squab breast with beurre noisette and thyme cream in its own jus, accented with rosemary, holds its own. For dessert, various pistachio preparations take center stage, including ravioli and dulce de leche with a peppery yuzu kosho cream and anise stinging nettle broth. Ridder is simply outstanding. It makes its debut in this guide's Top 20 at number 15.

With his latest project in the heart of Prinsenstad, Mario Ridder underscores his goal of re-establishing himself among the country's gastronomic elite in the near future. There is certainly no lack of ambition at Azurite, which is located in...