Osteria Porta Sud

Osteria Porta Sud, owned by Ralph Geerts, serves contemporary Italian cuisine and therefore calls itself a 'modern osteria'. The interior of the 1935 Art Deco building seamlessly complements this, featuring a beautiful granite floor, small tables set with white tablecloths, comfortably cushioned chairs, vintage touches like wooden cabinets, and an authentic Italian ambiance. Quality is highly valued here, and suppliers are carefully selected. The menu offers selections from both the Porta Sud menu and a vegetarian menu. The wine list is extensive, boasting no fewer than 450 Italian labels. The starter of lightly seared scallops with a sauce infused with Piedmont hazelnut oil, served over roasted cauliflower purée and Norcia truffle, is a surefire hit. The dish is presented beautifully on a decorative deep matte white plate. Next, from the open kitchen comes a rabbit roulade with olives and pine nuts, accompanied by cavolo nero and chard. It is a lovely earthy dish with rich, deep flavors. We pair it with a 2017 Ripasso Valpolicella DOC, which is lightly spiced with notes of dark fruit. One point worth noting concerns the acoustics. Due to the extensive use of hard materials like granite, wood, and concrete, they are far from optimal, and during busy periods it becomes difficult to hear each other clearly. The lively chatter does, however, lend an unmistakably Italian atmosphere. There is something to be said for that. A fine establishment!

Cozy and casual Italian restaurant in the heart of Breda. A lovely spot to stop for lunch. The fact that this place does so well is largely due to the friendly service that goes all out to make their guests feel welcome. But really, it's just...

Located at the beginning, or perhaps the end, of the historic Zuidpoort passage—depending on which direction you approach from—is Porta Sud. This elegant restaurant features small tables set with crisp white linens, where owner-chef Ralph Geerts showcases Italian cuisine in a modern interpretation. It’s bustling upon arrival, which isn’t ideal for the acoustics, thanks to the—otherwise stunning—granite flooring and hard surfaces like wood and concrete. Yet, this lively soundscape perfectly captures the vibrant, bustling atmosphere of traditional Italian gatherings. Paired with a glass of sparkling Bellavista Franciacorta Gran Cuvee Alma Brut, we savor a plate of exclusive cured ham from Emilia-Romagna, sliced paper-thin and served at the perfect temperature. The menu offers several multi-course tasting menus, including one fully vegetarian option. We opt to pair each course with a complementary glass of wine. For the starter, a finely minced diamond sirloin tartare is presented in a ring, garnished with dollops of parmesan cream, diced mortadella, and olives. The alternative option is a spicy, tomato-based vegetarian version. Served alongside is a rich, round Le Gaine Chardonnay that holds its own against the intense flavors. Next comes heavenly, substantial ravioli filled with runny egg yolk, ricotta, and spinach, topped with fresh morels, browned butter, and wild garlic oil. Equally exquisite and well-balanced is the main course of tender lamb fillet slices served over a rustic pea and pistachio purée, accompanied by al dente green asparagus and briny caper leaves. Geerts clearly knows his craft. One minor point of note. When our friendly waitress kindly offers to top up our glasses, we initially take it as a gesture of hospitality. That goodwill quickly turns sour, however, when we spot that half-glass pour listed at a hefty price on the bill.

Porta Sud, meaning 'the door to the south'. Owner-chef Ralph Geerts doesn’t adhere to traditional Italian cuisine, but instead gives it his own flair. The small restaurant, seating just 24 guests, is located in a 1935 Art Deco building. The interior is cosy chic, with immaculately linen-dressed tables, a stunning granite floor, tall stained-glass windows, and a long dining bar. Comfortable and inviting. Geerts has recently added a sommelier to his team, and based on the expert wine guidance provided by Denise Choufoer, she is a definite asset to Porta Sud. We are greeted by the warm and knowledgeable hostess Yonna Venema with freshly squeezed orange juice as an aperitif, alongside a side of nuts and olives. The menu rotates frequently and includes a fully vegetarian option. After a few palate-awakening amuse-bouches, we begin with a beautifully plated lukewarm tuna tartare atop an al dente risotto salad, finished with broccoli cream and delicate tufts of sun-ripened tomato. This is followed by a mezzaluna filled with green asparagus, crunchy almonds, and a dusting of pecorino, before the main course arrives. We savor buttery-soft diamond-cut beef tenderloin wrapped in pancetta, served with arugula purée, a crispy parmesan crust, and a green pepper sauce. The portion is somewhat modest for a main course, though. Denise pairs it with a genuine estate wine from the owner himself: When We Dance, Tenuta Il Palagio 2021. A supple, certified organic Chianti. It instantly makes our hearts leap with joy. A fine spot indeed.

The young and ambitious chef-owner Ralph Geerts has created a charming ambiance in the old passage De Zuidpoort on Nieuwe Ginnikenstraat in Breda. Upon entering, the beautiful natural lighting immediately catches the eye, along with the tall stained-glass windows and the elegant granite tile floor. Tables are dressed in white linen, a long dining bar runs through the space, and a wonderfully cozy atmosphere permeates the room. Modern Italian cuisine reigns supreme here, with focused activity visible in the open kitchen. Tap water is readily available, nuts and olives are served, and we begin with a sparkling Italian Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta made from Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, and Pinot Nero grapes as an aperitif. The menu rotates regularly, offering an à la carte selection. To start, tender slices of fresh scallops draped in a luscious vinaigrette of Parmigiano, morels, and espresso syrup. Umami bursts from each bite. Next comes a modest portion of perfectly cooked cod with a crunch of pistachios and pangrattato, accompanied by three preparations of multicolored carrots and an intensely flavored foam of blood orange and pistachio oil. In the glass, an Italian Don Lorenzo della Grillaia Lugana. Subtle and refined with delicate citrus notes. For dessert, a classic tiramisu featuring ladyfingers soaked in vermouth and espresso, mascarpone, and cocoa is quickly devoured. Kudos to hostess and sommelier Sabien Ammerlaan, who presents her wine selections professionally and with genuine passion. One point of attention: definitely do not reduce the portion sizes any further, or the dishes will become too meager. Welcome to Lekker!