Huisje James

Nestled in the heart of the Veluwe, on the outskirts of Ugchelen, lies the rustic Huisje James. The name does not immediately suggest it is a rural thatched-roof villa, tucked away behind a Van der Valk hotel. The dimly lit ambiance exudes a 1970s vibe, featuring explicit art on the walls. For a few years now, young chef Laurens Samsen has been behind the stove, serving modern cuisine rooted in classic French techniques. Sauces have proven to be his forte. The menu offers only a choice between a six- or seven-course menu, which can also be served entirely vegetarian upon request. Dishes are prepared using local and sustainable ingredients, along with vegetables from their own garden. An extensive wine list and a wine pairing option are also available. We begin with a dish featuring a modest portion of raw mackerel paired with honey tomato and masala tandoori cream. Beautifully presented and a light, refreshing start. This is followed by a vegetarian dish of smoked celeriac with a savory garlic sauce—a true umami bomb. The subsequent dishes are characterized by an abundance of sauces, creams, and rich, velvety mousses. Highly creative, yet somewhat monotonous. The main course of expertly cooked regional beef stands out, served with little towers of beetroot and a basil and olive oil cream, finished with crispy pine nuts. The vegetarian main course—'Garden: What the Season Offers'—looks picture-perfect once again, but despite super-fresh ingredients like zucchini, leeks, and snap peas, it lacks substance. The young service staff is somewhat reserved; it could certainly use a bit more energy. Welcome to Lekker!

House James offers a surprisingly idyllic escape, nestled in a rural setting with sweeping views over green meadows. This tranquility carries through into the kitchen, where chef Laurens Samsen uses ingredients from his own vegetable garden...