Samphire

Something of a surprise in the centre of bustling St Helier, Jersey's urban entrepôt, Samphire is a sleek, seductively lit place run with great attention to detail by staff speaking softly enough not to disturb the restful ambience created by sumptuous Prussian blue sofas in the main dining rooms. There's a terrace outside, but on a deserted chilly evening, it's more likely to be populated by smokers than customers. A long window affords views of Tom Radiguet's busy but calm kitchen, where dishes with a strong note of exploratory British modernism are fettled. Oysters and raw specialities open the show, ahead of starters such as lobster linguine dressed with lobster cream and basil or duck liver parfait accompanied by blackberry-stuffed French toast, ruby port and thyme. Fish is a big theme when it comes to main courses such as grilled Jersey lobster or poached cod fillet in olive oil with artichoke purée, confit salsify and celery chimichurri, while meat might yield dry-aged steaks, salted duck breast or venison loin with blue cheese, beetroot, English pear and game sauce. Despite the occasional misfire, there is more to love than regret here, with desserts offering the likes of chocolate and coffee-infused ganache with salted coffee crumb and malted ice cream. A classy wine list suits the deepest pockets best, especially when the Coravin gadget is all gassed up and ready to go. Around 30 pounds will buy you a slug of Olivier Leflaive's 2018 Puligny-Montrachet, Les Meix, a wine with all the oiliness of low-yielding grapes and the penetrating aromatic blast of thoroughbred French oak.