Longueville Manor

Sections of this historic edifice, including its stone entrance arch, date back to the turbulent mid-16th century, but there is nothing unsettled about the place these days. Indeed, its head chef, the highly accomplished Andrew Baird, has been cooking here since Sir John Major was prime minister. From the civilised lounge bar to a linened and mirrored dining room that feels like the salon privé on a luxury liner, the hotel radiates a sense of welcoming contentment, with staff who exude effortless courtesy to non-res and resident diners alike. The whole place runs on well-oiled rails. Baird's cooking has gently evolved over the decades, absorbing the better ideas of the modern repertoire, ignoring the silly flummery. His supremely well-judged dishes can be as simple as a terrine of slow-cooked pork, guinea fowl and ham hock with pata negra, pickled vegetables and golden raisins or as complex as an array of Jersey crab with watermelon, lime, prawns, garden shoots and Bloody Mary gel. Main courses might see classic preparations slightly tweaked, as in Creedy Carver duck breast with glazed fig, butternut squash, pomegranate and a duck confit salad or line-caught local sea bass and crab exotically paired with spring onion, ginger and lime leaf, all offset by Jersey Royals and a Champagne sauce. The prime materials are of unquestionable quality, the timing and seasoning flawless. Signature Longueville desserts could bring pumpkin mousse with sea-buckthorn ice cream and pumpkin cake croûtons or Jersey yoghurt mousse with orange blossom and honey ice cream. A wine list running to 5,000 bins could just be a boring grand-hotel trudge past the familiar names. At Longueville, it exudes imagination and care at every turn, as witness the enthusiasm with which the sommelier serves the Coravin glasses (and if you haven't seen the device in action, this is the place to watch the magic).

3 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence