Atelier Moessmer Norbert Niederkofler

Exceptional cuisine

Norbert Niedekofler was the first chef to win three Michelin stars in South Tyrol, but above all, he was the first to make a revolutionary intellectual gesture. He taught how to “cook the mountain” through contemporary stylistic elements, codifying its form and flavor. Today, his “Cook The Mountain” philosophy is already known worldwide as an ethical culinary concept centered on menu seasonality, respect for Nature’s cycles, and the skillful use of scraps. After the splendor of St. Hubertus in San Cassiano, for the past two years Niedekofler has relocated to the elegant spaces of Atelier Moessmer in Brunico, a historic villa owned by the eponymous wool mill that manufactured loden garments for Emperor Franz Joseph. It is a return home, as Niedekofler hails from the Aurina Valley, located just a short distance from Brunico. At the Atelier, guests can dine in the rooms adjacent to the Moessmer family’s historic library, alongside volumes dating back to the Austrian Tyrol era, or at the ultra-modern omakase counter set up in front of the kitchen headed by sous chef Mauro Siega. The menu is unique and seasonal, varying according to the availability of natural, ethical, zero-kilometer products. During the winter months, preserves and ferments from spring and summer harvests are used. Wild herbs, roots, berries, drupes, and mushrooms accompany char, trout, sheep, lambs, and free-range or semi-free-range grey cattle. In a culinary journey that may recall – at times – certain Scandinavian experiences, one can start with a salad of seasonal vegetables and fruits, such as green apple, wood sorrel, lemon balm, mushrooms, currants, rowan, and savory variations on the theme; continue with trout cooked all’acquapazza with cornelian cherry, gooseberry, and tomato water; and proceed with risotto made with buttermilk, sour butter, hay, and mountain herbs. A large Basque-style grill elevates lambs raised at two thousand meters and game animals hunted at high altitude. There is always the option to add Niedekofler’s great classics to the menu: whitefish tartare, red turnip gnocchi, and tarte tatin.

Scene setting:The small town of Brunico sits in a lush valley beneath the meeting point of the Alps and the Dolomites. In 2023, local chef Norbert Niederkofler relocated from his previous St Hubertus hotel-restaurant in a neighbouring valley to new premises in a 19th century villa, formerly part of the Moessmer textile production complex. The space has been redesigned with an emphasis on discreet luxury, including the addition of a modernist glass-walled extension housing the open kitchen and counter seating area. Chef as nurturer:Niederkofler has forged an enviable reputation over many decades, both within and beyond the kitchen. While his benign presence permeates Atelier Moessmer, executive chef Mauro Siega and sommelier-manager Lukas Gerges lead a talented and youthful team in daily operations. At the same time, Niederkofler’s established ‘cook the mountain’ philosophy – which permits only the use of hyper-local Tyrolean terroir ingredients – drives every aspect of the restaurant’s sustainability-forward culinary narrative. The dining experience:Guests first ring a doorbell before being invited into the villa, emphasising the private family feel. Snacks are served in the bar-lounge area, before different courses are presented in a variety of rooms, on the garden terrace and at the kitchen counter. The charming team judge how much detail to deliver on the dishes and wines. The simply named dishes – Spring Salad, Tyrolean Beef, Mountain Cheesecake – belie serious complexity, cutting-edge techniques and, most importantly, fascinating flavour combinations. Long-time signatures include singular versions of beetroot gnocchi and tarte tatin that can be added to the super-seasonal 12-course tasting menu. Above and beyond:Niederkofler oversees numerous projects outside the walls of Atelier Moessmer, including AlpiNN by Norbert Niederkofler – a stunning three-in-one restaurant (lounge-bar area; a la carte dining room; tasting menu space) on the slopes of Plan de Corones ski area, perched at an altitude of 2,235m. Furthermore, he founded Care, an annual event centred around ethical cooking, helped curate a degree course in gastronomy at the University of Bolzan, heads an academy scheme to train young, mostly female chefs in Saudi Arabia and is campaigning for the reform of school meals in Italy.