Textúra

It may have seemed an audacious move when Textúra opened in 2018 – mere steps from its sister restaurant, on the opposite side of the street. A rival to itself, no less. The vision, however, proved prescient. Here, chef Ákos Sárközi assumed the role of co-owner alongside Tamás Horváth and Zoltán Kalocsai – and the presence of one of Hungary’s most celebrated chefs has become central to the restaurant’s identity. Sárközi has even brought theatrical performances into the dining room, paired with a bespoke menu echoing the play’s themes. Few restaurants exhibit such a meticulously conceived and consistently realised concept. The name Textúra (Texture) is no empty gesture: an organic latticework motif permeates the entire interior, tracing its way across ceilings, walls, mirrors – and reappearing as visual flourishes on the plate. A glass artist has even fashioned serving dishes from fragments of used wine bottles. Sárközi’s hand is unmistakable. Though some have declared this refined, almost sculptural style of cuisine passé, it continues to yield creations of exquisite culinary grace. On our visit, cured trout was enfolded in apple crisps curled to resemble rosebuds, and the tokaji aszú-infused foie gras was divine. A delicately latticed apple pie, so exquisite we hesitated to disturb its form, concealed a sumptuously reimagined take on a humble classic. Those wishing to dip a toe into Textúra’s rarefied waters might begin with the weekday Lunch Break menu: three artful courses at a pleasantly palatable price. Though a sanctuary of haute cuisine, Textúra welcomes a wider public, offering both à la carte options and degustation menus.