Gruber's Restaurant

The story

Gruber's Restaurant, Austrian and Modern Cuisine on Clever Straße, Cologne

Gruber's Restaurant sits at Clever Straße 32 in Cologne's old town and serves Austrian food that earned 3 Kochlöffel from the Schlemmer Atlas in 2026. The Schlemmer Atlas describes a Mediterranean-inspired dining room with its own wine shop.

Austrian cooking with a modern streak

Franz Gruber, an Austrian-born trained cook and restaurant manager, has run the house since 1999. In the kitchen, Denis Steindorfer from Carinthia cooks traditional Austrian dishes alongside more modern menus. The team singles out the surprise menu, and the set menus run to as many as six courses. Michelin also lists the restaurant as Recommended for 2026.

On the plate

A Wednesday lunch menu, offered with Fine Food Days Cologne, shows the modern side of the kitchen. It opens with celery in textures, paired with truffle, apple and hazelnut. Seared skrei with citrus and cauliflower follows, then guinea fowl breast with Albufera, Jerusalem artichoke and potatoes. Dark chocolate with vanilla and banana closes the meal.

Wine and service

The wine list centers on Austria, from well-known estates to newer names, with a large selection of Austrian spirits. Sommelier Nico Veale guides the choices, and Ornella Berrini leads the service team. Vegetarian dishes and outdoor seating are also on offer.