The story
Soces sits at 32 Rue de la Villette in Paris's 19th arrondissement, a seafood-focused modern bistro that Le Fooding named Best pick-me-up in 2023. The card changes with the day's catch and the seasons, so the plates on each visit depend on what arrived.
Chef Marius de Ponfilly, formerly of Clamato, cooks with whatever fish, sea urchins and shellfish he can source. When Le Fooding dined here, the plates included Blainville clams brightened with Tabasco and homemade apple cider vinegar, and cuttlefish served raw with celeriac and citron. A jack mackerel carpaccio is finished with tosazu, a dashi-infused rice vinegar, and Utah Beach cockles arrive in a Savagnin-infused butter sauce.
The room keeps its older character, with crown mouldings, timeworn hardwood floors, rough stone walls and a kitchen visible through the window. Captain Kevin Deulio, formerly of Bar Vendôme at the Ritz, runs the front of house. Meat eaters are catered for too, with flank steak and peppercorn sauce and a pork chop for two. A poached pear under buttery crumble closes the meal.
Recognition
Details
History
A briny bistro that’ll blow you away! High up in Paris’ Belleville neighborhood, the cheerful captain Kevin Deulio (ex-Bar Vendôme at the Ritz) has taken over Soces, a chic spot showing off its crown mouldings, timeworn hardwood floors, rough stone walls and windowed kitchen, where chef Marius de Ponfilly (ex-Clamato) cooks up everything he can get his hands on: fish, sea urchins, shellfish… The other night, we caught all of the following in our nets: white praire clams from Blainville that were electrified by Tabasco sauce and homemade apple cider vinegar; a marinated sardine bathing in a cauliflower cream; badass cuttlefish served raw with celeriac and citron; generous jack mackerel carpaccio licked with tosazu (a dashi-infused rice vinegar); mi-cuit Utah Beach cockles in a spellbinding Savagnin-infused butter sauce; and oven-roasted scallops from Erquy with butternut squash (perhaps a bit too intense). It’s worth noting that the menu also has lots of options for meat lovers: flank steak with peppercorn sauce, a hearty pork chop for two… And to round out the meal? A poached pear sprinkled with buttery crumble topping. // Sonia Sétif
A briny bistro that’ll blow you away! High up in Paris’ Belleville neighborhood, the cheerful captain Kevin Deulio (ex-Bar Vendôme at the Ritz) has taken over Soces, a chic spot showing off its crown mouldings, timeworn hardwood floors, rough stone walls and windowed kitchen, where chef Marius de Ponfilly (ex-Clamato) cooks up everything he can get his hands on: fish, sea urchins, shellfish… The other night, we caught all of the following in our nets: white praire clams from Blainville that were electrified by Tabasco sauce and homemade apple cider vinegar; a marinated sardine bathing in a cauliflower cream; badass cuttlefish served raw with celeriac and citron; generous jack mackerel carpaccio licked with tosazu (a dashi-infused rice vinegar); mi-cuit Utah Beach cockles in a spellbinding Savagnin-infused butter sauce; and oven-roasted scallops from Erquy with butternut squash (perhaps a bit too intense). It’s worth noting that the menu also has lots of options for meat lovers: flank steak with peppercorn sauce, a hearty pork chop for two… And to round out the meal? A poached pear sprinkled with buttery crumble topping. // Sonia Sétif
Location