The story
Rooster, at 137 rue Cardinet in Paris's 17th arrondissement, is a Provençal bistro that earned a Michelin Recommended listing in 2026. The modern Provençal kitchen belongs to Marseille-born chef Frédéric Duca, who runs the restaurant in the Batignolles district with his wife, Cécile.
Duca cooked at L'Instant d'Or in Paris, where he won a Michelin star in 2013, before a stint at Racines in New York. He opened Rooster in Paris to cook the food of his childhood. The menu leans on fennel, anchovy, lamb, sea urchin, oils and spices, the flavours of a Mediterranean upbringing. The Provençal bistro cooking here is direct and generous, built around what he likes to eat himself.
Le Fooding's 2026 listing singled out the prix-fixe lunch, which has included roasted fennel and clams under a mascarpone-lemon emulsion with squid ink tuiles, and pollack in a curry emulsion with shellfish jus. The à la carte carries the chef's signature plates, such as marinated bluefin tuna with harissa and plums, and lobster with coco de Paimpol beans in a verbena-infused bisque. Groups can order the chef's bouillabaisse at least 72 hours in advance, for a minimum of four people.
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At Rooster (a carefully decorated neo-bistro with a marbled bar, globe light fixtures and shiny salamander grills), Marseille-native Frédéric Duca (ex-Racines in New York) produces some marvelous eats, with an added Mediterranean accent to boot. The day we went for lunch, the prix-fixe menu featured: roasted fennel and clams plunged into a sublime mascarpone-lemon emulsion, with a few squid ink tuiles; or another emulsion that was just as magical, made with curry and a shellfish jus , camouflaging a perfectly pearly white pollack fillet, a silky lemon/orange purée and fregola; before some caramelized apple slices made without adding sugar, placed atop a delightful lavender crème diplomate . Although, we should mention that the chef plays his most sentimental hits on the à la carte selection: marinated bluefin tuna with harissa and plums; lobster with coco de Paimpol beans and a verbena-infused bisque; veal sweetbreads and shellfish… which you can also sample on the five-course tasting menu. // G.LeP.
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