The story
Le Grand Bain, at 14 rue Dénoyez in Paris's 20th arrondissement, is a modern bistro that Le Fooding listed in 2026. The room is brutalist, with a steel facade, concrete walls and timeworn banquettes, a short walk from Belleville metro.
Canadian chef Emily Chia cooks behind the windowed kitchen, having previously worked at Saint JOHN in London. She took over after Edward Delling-Williams left for Buffet, and the menu's small, punchy plates carried on without a break in style.
On one visit, Le Fooding's critic ate Armenian lavash with a creamy tuna dipping sauce seasoned with Japanese spices, and a crisp vegetable salad with pig's ear and shiso. Pan-fried chanterelles in browned butter with kimchi came next, followed by panna cotta with roasted blood peach and oats. The sauerkraut pâté en croûte and the chunky panisse are dishes regulars seem to remember.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
Even though chef Edward Delling-Williams has left to go cook at Buffet , Edouard Lax’s brutalist bistro (a steel facade, concrete walls, timeworn banquettes) continues electrifying crowds with an ambiance that feels more like a wrestling match than a city diner. From behind the windowed kitchen, Canadian chef Emily Chia (ex-Saint JOHN in London) ensures a smooth transition with small, punk plates that are as sharp and precise as an uppercut punch. The night we went: Armenian lavash bread with a creamy tuna dipping sauce seasoned with Japanese spices; an insane crisp vegetable salad with pig’s ears and shiso; delightful pan-fried chanterelle mushrooms in browned butter and kimchi; before a good whey panna cotta with roasted blood peach and oats. Seen from afar: sauerkraut remastered as a pâté en croûte, or the legendary chunky panisse . // R.deC.
Location
Facebook
Instagram
X