Selma

Nothing could be morewell‑chosen than to have one of Denmark’s best smørrebrød places located by the Workers’ Museum, referencing that the Danish labor movement in the late 1800s was rounded off with smørrebrød, beer, and schnapps. However, there is nothing museum‑like about the both newly imagined, modern, and respectful takes on tradition that are served at Selma. It was Swedish Magnus Petterson and Mikkeller’s Mikkel Borg Bjergsø who created Selma in a relaxed atmosphere with smørrebrød and beer at the center, but with the possibility of maritime dishes and a single glass of wine if one so wishes. However, the smørrebrød and the beer are recommended. A fine selection of variously flavored beers ranges from light fruity ales such as Innocent Instigator to dark and robust stouts like Schwarzwälder Kirsch. The relaxed service recommends three pieces per person, and then you also leave there satisfied. The elderflower herring with pickled vegetables, buckwheat, and crème fraîche is not only incredibly beautiful but also a thread back to the very fresh and tangy herring we enjoyed a hundred years ago. The fillets lie in straight rows, and the crunchy green with the crisp buckwheat kernels adorns the surface. A dish even for those who are not big herring enthusiasts. The brown butter confit celery with green bitter herbs, citrus mayo, hazelnuts, and freshly shaved winter truffle is both for the meat‑free and a tribute to butter and umami. The warm fish dishes are probably the crowning glory of a pearl‑string, with perfectly temperature‑controlled cod, large beautifully peeled shrimp, poached egg, pickled pepper, and cornichons. Pickled onions and a butter sauce round the dish into a good blend of smørrebrød and a warm fish dish. The rye‑flour fried red‑sole fillets are crispy on the outside and tender and juicy inside, with small cloves of black garlic, salted lemon, and a light green sorrel leaf garnish that could be eaten with a spoon. The meat craving was satisfied by a chicken salad and a tartare, where especially the chicken salad could embrace us in creamy chicken with lots of good and dark chicken meat (which tastes the most), a thick slice of bread, and a topping of celery crumbs with a good sprinkling of bacon on top. The tartare is more edgy with an oyster emulsion, crunchy rye crumbs, and amaranth; its beautiful red leaves, with a slight barnyard flavor, may have trouble giving the meat any service. Selma is a worthy contribution to an experience with great flavor of the proud Danish smørrebrød tradition, which has now once again found its way to the heights of masterclass.

good quality, good value cooking