Marv & Ben

There are two servings, and the historic, charming rooms in central Copenhagen are packed full. Over the past few years, David Andersen and Johan Burich‑Holck have been turning up the heat in the Nordic kitchens, building a skilled team that does everything possible to make you feel comfortable. Not everyone is lucky enough to have the table for more than two hours. However, it is possible to finish all six dishes within the allotted time, as there is a brisk pace both on the floor and in the kitchen. The cuisine is pure Nordic, featuring scallops, potatoes, langoustine, tartare, lamb and rhubarb. It is light and frothy, combined with green‑apple notes, cultured milk and plenty of umami that dominate the experience. The wines are of high quality, ranging from classic to modern natural selections. You can purchase a glass from any bottle under 1,000 DKK. There is also a wine menu, but thanks to the generous glass policy we can order à la carte without any problem. Among the best dishes is the salted scallop in a buttermilk sauce with the inner part of the cucumber, while the cucumber skin is fermented and mixed with cabbage. Despite a fair amount of acidity, it is a creamy, mild dish that pairs well with the opening glass of bubbles. The fried potatoes with lovage emulsion, smoked mackerel and smoked‑cheese foam are a pure umami bomb that benefits from a glass of atypical Chardonnay, Clos Windsbuhl from the Alsatian Zind‑Humbrecht. The langoustine with green strawberries, white celery and beef tartare loses a bit of focus. The lamb is pure, good meat without much fuss, creating joy when paired with Gevrey‑Chambertin 2017 from Duroché. A super‑fresh, frothy dessert with rosehip and rhubarb sorbet completes the characteristic expression of Marv & Ben, which sits squarely in the main track of truly excellent bistros of very high class.

good quality, good value cooking