Admiralgade 26

On the menu board, listed as an alternative to the selection of tempting dishes, is “A Tour in the Kitchen.” This tour is akin to a formative journey of taste experiences, where you return changed, and your perspective shifts slightly in the interplay between the familiar and the surprising. In the beautiful surroundings, you are hosted in the finest style by co-owner Christian Nedergaard, who warmly yet professionally attends to every guest, while the restaurant quickly fills up at the start of the evening. We cannot decide, as every dish on the menu sounds delicious, so we safely leave the choice to Nedergaard’s hands and begin with a glass of champagne from the furthest edge of the region – “if you sneeze, you hit Chablis,” says Christian in his characteristic straightforward, simple, and highly knowledgeable manner. One of the kitchen’s great strengths is that it lets the main ingredient remain clearly in focus, while unusual, often surprising flavor impressions from all corners of the world complement the fresh seasonal produce. Thus, the Danish crisp white asparagus gains body and creaminess from the classic beurre blanc sauce, while the liberating acidity comes from fresh sorrel leaves and a thorough dusting of sumac. The octopus is a true work of art to behold, adorned with summer-like yellow cabbage shoot flowers over an almost Chinese-tasting “ragout” of tender octopus, crisp green asparagus, and plenty of toasted sesame, whose richness is perfectly balanced by a touch of chili. Potatoes are morphologically transformed into pasta, served al dente with vongole and blue mussels in a classic pepperoncino broth, pleasantly and moderately sprinkled with young pine shoots. All three recognizable dishes are brimming with surprises. These are kept in balance with more subdued offerings such as creamy stracciatella with herb oil, razor-sharp tartare of Himmerland cattle with quinoa and creamy miso, and a small plate of grilled eggplants in an elderflower emulsion. Sated with experiences, we receive a worthy crescendo in very simple “main courses” featuring pan-fried cod in a mussel-salad sauce with pickled lemon zest, as well as Iberian pork neck with a mushroom-onion glaze that we will long remember. It is not entirely classic, however, as it is countered by zucchini with pickled kumquat and a fresh kimchi. Simplicity, when thoroughly thought through, always harbors a complexity that provokes reflection, much like when the rhubarb dessert with macaron receives a sudden burst of white asparagus foam, providing the necessary freshness and bitterness to the white chocolate foam. The wine program is also something entirely its own, where Christian Nedergaard’s knowledge and passion for special producers, both classic and unconventional grapes, and above all for taste and flavor pairing, cap off the experience in a definitive Masterclass.