Steirereck

Hardly any restaurant in Austria is showered with superlatives as consistently as the Steirereck. Heinz and Birgit Reitbauer run their establishment with a precision and mastery that recalls the discipline of an orchestra – every note hits its mark, every cue is well-considered. This begins with the farmhouse bread, baked by the chef herself, and the legendary blood sausage bread, which already reveals the kitchen’s signature right from the start: deeply rooted in Austria, robust and almost defiant, yet with an open gaze beyond borders. The small starters impress with their variety: salt snow from the Carpathians, crispy chicken skin à la Risibisi, shiso tartlets with sungold tomatoes all signal early on that here they don’t just cook, but also tell stories. The shiso tartlet is a taste of anticipation for what’s to come. The combination of peach and melon in verbena broth leaves us somewhat puzzled: presented on a tiered stand, but almost bland in flavor. The appetizers impress through their delicate aromatics: a sunflower, broken down into flower base, stems, and seeds, arranged with chanterelles, tomatoes, and field cucumber, appears like a still life that suddenly breathes. Here you can feel how the kitchen elevates vegetables to stardom – a bold, masterful approach. And then there’s the eel. An outsider in haute cuisine, yet elevated here to protagonist. Served with spring herbs, May wipferl, and pepperoni, it demonstrates what the Steirereck excels at: shaping a poem out of seemingly simple ingredients. No spectacle, no posing – just a quiet bow to the product. Not every course reaches this height. The catfish with green beans, plum butter, and lemon balm loses its balance. Green beans too soft, plum butter too overpowering, a sauce without a voice – a moment where harmony briefly falters. Nevertheless – in the end, the impression remains of a kitchen that sets standards. Few other establishments manage to combine regionalism, precision, and innovative drive so well. The Steirereck claims its 19 points and five hats with ease – and shows that even perfection leaves room for minor rough edges. Perhaps it is precisely these that make the experience even more human. Address Am Heumarkt A 2 1030 Vienna Austria Contact 01 713 31 68 wien@steirereck.at https://www.steirereck.at/ Opening Hours Mon–Fri 11:30–14:30 and 18:30–23:00 Variable Team Heinz Reitbauer & Michael Bauböck Chef Birgit Reitbauer Maitre

Die Meierei im Stadtpark is the little sister of the prestigious five-Michelin-starred Steirereck. Originally conceived as a milk bar, it is now a wonderful oasis in the city park where you can enjoy excellent breakfasts, while the lunch and dinner menus are also of a high standard. The menu ranges from classics (Beuschel, Schnitzel) to modern interpretations of seasonal Slow Food. The spring salad with baked wild garlic and quail egg is a prime example: light and fresh with that special touch. The pike with delicate oven-roasted Romanesco and cauliflower slices also belongs in this category. Marinated strawberries with granola round out the menu. A cheese selection is highly recommended, as both the variety and the consistency of the cheeses are perfect here. The extensive wine list also has the right bottle ready. Address Am Heumarkt A 2, 1030 Vienna, Austria Contact 01 713 31 68 10 wien@steirereck.at https://www.steirereck.at/ Opening Hours Mon–Fri 8 AM–10 PM, Sat 9 AM–7 PM Chef Team Heinz Reitbauer & Michael Bauböck