Gault&Millau — 14
The Bistro Neumarkt is now Cucina Itameshi. The culinary duo Valentin Diem and Nenad Mlinarevic have joined forces with their kindred-spirited colleagues from Vienna, Edward Eddi Dimant and Tobi Müller, and adopted their concept. The idea of fusing Italian and Japanese cuisine is particularly apt, as it unites the culinary beacons of umami-rich flavor landscapes. Pasta dishes exist in both cultures, for instance, so why not serve udon noodles in a cacio e pepe style? Success proves the quartet right – on a beautiful Saturday afternoon, the cozy garden quickly fills to the brim. The kitchen remains remarkably efficient, as Nenad has meanwhile become a master of flavorful efficiency.
The dishes consist of few, perfectly balanced components: such as the raw, ceviche-style marinated dorade slices with blueberries, pickled onions, coriander, and a sweet-and-sour broth. Or the creamy burrata served with a shiso-pistachio pesto that tastes cool and nutty-fresh. For DIY rolling, crispy nori seaweed sheets are served alongside a combination of rice, diced tuna, and seasoned sesame. Only with the ramen noodles featuring bonito flakes, XO sauce, and seaweed powder does the umami balance tip overboard – there is simply too much of that meaty flavor. A variation on the fish-and-miso combination is the cod, which receives an nduja-based cream alongside a glaze of sweet-spicy Japanese soy-cereal paste; while the spicy cured sausage adds plenty of power, this dish could also have used a touch of freshness or acidity. To finish, the tiramisu is prepared quite classically, without a Japanese twist. A smart choice: in this version, the sweet, creamy classic ranks among the best in Zurich.