Killiecrankie House

Following a stint running the popular Elia supper club in London, chef Tom Tsappis and his partner Matilda Ruffle headed north to the village of Killiecrankie and took over what was the village’s old rural lodge. The resulting transformation into a contemporary restaurant with rooms has been nothing short of striking, from the marble-topped bar and lounge with their deep-blue colour schemes, pink chandeliers and vintage record collection (you're welcome to choose your own after-dinner playlist) to the dark, cosseting dining rooms and shining open kitchen. Dinner is an unpredictable and ever-changing feast of up to 20 little dishes, and diners are forewarned that the whole experience can last over three hours. The cooking marries artisan Scottish ingredients with local folklore and subtly interwoven influences from Japan (Matilda’s mother is Japanese) – a main course of local venison with preserved blueberries, red cabbage, seaweed butter and hokkaido-style milk bread is typical of the invention and cross-pollination of ideas on display here. Elsewhere, a broth of Arbroath smokies is accompanied by a savoury, fish-shaped jasmine taiyaki cake, while a dish entitled ‘dripping fried porridge’ (served in rectangular blocks and sprinkled with Isle of Mull Cheddar) is a homage to the old Scots tradition of the ‘porridge drawer’. Local ingredients shine throughout, from a medley of wild mushrooms with chanterelle powder and black pepper on a soft bed of polenta-like panisse to a pairing of apple sorbet and shavings of Blue Murder cheese. Matilda Ruffle’s skill and well-informed guidance as a sommelier shine through in the drinks pairings (including wines from her family’s Treaty Port vineyard in China as well as bespoke Wasted Degrees beer and all manner of cocktails). Alternatively, the regular wine list offers a dozen or so by the glass.