Shrub

On the Eastgate rows in the centre of Chester, Shrub specialises in plant-based cooking with a Mediterranean emphasis, illuminated here and there with east Asian seasonings. The room is expansive and relaxing, with lots of sustainable wood, rattan lampshades and fake foliage lending a gentle touch of urban pastoral. Staff are highly clued up and helpful at filling in any gaps the menu specs might expose, although much of it pushes the on-trend buttons for voguish vegan cookery. Start with meze and small-plate selections to see how you go. Courgettes barbecued over coals acquire a deliciously lingering smokiness, and are accompanied by spicy tomato sambal and toasted coconut. The onion bhajis with tamarind and green chutney have rightly been a menu stalwart since Shrub opened in 2020, while artichoke 'wings' (we used to call them hearts) come with a dressing raunched up with Aleppo pepper and garlic mayo. A wine and miso dressing with pumpkin tortellini was everything our umami receptors could wish for, and made up for a rather heavy texture in the pasta parcels themselves. Gnocchi with sugar snaps, rocket and sorrel pesto is an appetising study in green, while sides include Szechuan fries with spring onion and chilli. After that, something soothing such as chocolate and mint cheesecake should fit the bill. Shrub also does it own creative plant-based take on the Sunday roast: oyster mushroom Wellington is the main event, accompanied by a vegan ‘yorkie’, charred cabbage, assorted veg, seasonal purée and gravy. ‘You miss nothing and gain everything,’ noted one fan. Fragrant cocktails and no-waste infusions add to the drinks list, which also has characterful wines by the glass from £6.50.

1 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence