Principe Leopoldo

Here, everyone primarily wants one thing: risotto! We can understand that. Our deep green spring risotto with wild garlic, morels, and a few drops of olive oil from Lake Lugano was once again sensationally good, perfectly textured and cooked all'onda. A huge portion is served; it could even feed a large family. That has always been the case at the "Villa" and will remain so. "We want to show our generous side," laughs Chef Cristian Moreschi, and Antonino Forte, the new sharp maître d', reveals: "Most guests easily finish the entire portion." Regenerating isn't Chef Cristian's style. He starts every risotto from scratch and also has a second, slightly exotic variant on the menu: risotto with raw red prawns and a mildly spicy Thai curry. The pasta alternatives: a raviolo with almost liquid yolk and wild chicory, cappellacci with yolk and black truffle, tortelloni al formaggino with ricotta, herbs, butter, and sage. The "Villa Principe Leopoldo" high above Lugano is open daily at lunch and dinner; the 22 chefs, hidden in the deep basement, are fully occupied: breakfast, lunch menu, dinner menu, two "menu surprises", banquets, bar menu, weddings. They know nothing else and work very well even under pressure. Highlights on the menu: "Cubettata", small cubes of raw veal, asymmetrically plated with crispy milk spheres, lemon mayo, and "agretti", or sea aster. Or snow-white cod "Glacier 51", combined with a few red prawns and a plump stuffed squid. What's poured alongside it is excellent: an elaborately prepared bouillabaisse transforms into a sauce at the "Villa". At the front of house, Chef Cristian has a new partner: Antonino Forte serves as both maître d' and sommelier. He trains the young service staff and puts on a fiery show with dessert: "Crespelle alla lampada", aka Crêpes Suzette flambéed tableside from the cart, are the big hit on offer.