Zur Gedult

High quality cooking

The «Gedult» in Burgdorf’s old town is far from a stiff fine-dining temple. You feel looked after as if visiting friends, and what Lukas Kiener serves up is truly impressive. The sole chef offers an evening of a fairly priced six-course tasting menu (with optional wine pairing), harmoniously combining down-to-earth cooking with exotic accents. He serves a crispy ball of pulled veal tail alongside tarragon foam, mushrooms, pickled onions, and a corn cracker with veal tartare. The «Aemme-Shrimps» are slightly overcooked, but the dish still succeeds thanks to a robust bisque made from their shells, lemon presented as fillets and pearls, and fried capers. The skrei is cooked to perfect translucency on a celery purée, accompanied by a hollandaise enriched with grapefruit juice; grapefruit also appears as fillets and gel atop a rice cracker. Kiener handles the exciting beef main course with equal mastery, skillfully pairing pan-seared flank steak with bell pepper cream, onion confit with toasted buckwheat, a Belper Knolle croquette, and a sweet-and-sour cucumber roll. That the chef is always willing to go the extra mile is evident in the elaborate cheese course. Perched atop a cream made from Winterberg cheese produced by Burgdorf’s Fromage Mauerhofer sits a crispy Vacherin choux bun coated in refreshing sorrel foam; charming hostess Barbara Schütz then pours a delicate white wine soup into the deep plate. Kiener maintains his high standard until the very end with a white chocolate dessert variation paired with sour cream ice cream and lightly salted, pickled blueberries. The friendly service and ambiance also deserve praise: four excellent aperitif snacks, two amuse-bouches, a bread course featuring a mini Zopf, four petits fours, and a homemade mini-format Dubai chocolate bar to take home.