Homestead Kitchen

With the North York Moors unrolling before you like a full-scale map beyond the windows of this converted farmhouse and smithy,  you won't lack for visual ravishment. The village of Goathland will seem topographically familiar from its service as the hamlet in ITV's Heartbeat and the Homestead plays its part too, its low-ceilinged dining areas done in unshowy country style. Chef Peter Neville and his family have put down local roots here, drawing in meat from moorland farmers, fish from nearby Whitby, and a plethora of produce from their own kitchen gardens. Little craft events and guided walks add to the sense that you have dropped in on friends who have put rather more effort into planning your visit than you are used to. The cooking applies modern techniques and combinations to sterling ingredients, beginning perhaps with a faggot of veal cheek and calf's liver on truffled soubise cream, or soused red mullet with baby violet artichoke in bouillabaisse. Main-course meat could be Yorkshire wagyu with confit mushrooms, duck liver parfait and a salad of Yorkshire Blue and watercress – if the fish of the day, served with crab salad and lovage-buttered peas doesn't tempt. Richly enveloping desserts might encompass caramelised lemon tart and local honey ice cream or chocolate and cherry biscuit with candied almonds and crème fraîche. Begin with an elderflower and English fizz cocktail for a true taste of patriotic pastoral. True to its name, Homestead also sports a self-contained holiday cottage for those who want to linger a while.

3 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence