Marle

Australian chef Skye Gyngell (the driving force behind Spring in London's Somerset House) has been in charge of this grand Georgian mansion's culinary direction since 2021. Sustainability isn’t just a buzzword at this rural haven, it’s at the root of everything the hotel does – from being entirely plastic-free to establishing a certified organic livestock farm and biodynamic market garden, which supply the house and its two restaurants (Marle and Hearth). As a result, the chefs are able to work directly with farmers to sustain a productive connection and collaboration between field and kitchen. Marle, the larger and more sophisticated dining option, comes with muted decor enlivened by a generous dose of greenery. The concise menu is based almost entirely on what is grown, reared or caught in the surrounding area – apart from the tang of winter citrus (Amalfi lemons or pomelos, perhaps) and judiciously sourced artisan produce with serious pedigree (San Daniele ham, seasonal British cheese and impeccably fresh seafood). Italian accents offered welcome warmth and vivacity during our visit, with standouts ranging from an artfully composed starter of silken tortellini filled with cime di rapa, potato and Taleggio (pitch-perfect seasoning amplifying the flavours) to a main course featuring monkfish with pancetta, soft white beans, gently bitter radicchio and tomatoes. We were also blown away by a superlative serving of pork belly with celeriac rémoulade and lentils braised in red wine, while a flawless slice of rhubarb tart provided the perfect finish. As you’d expect from a hotel of this calibre, the wine cellar is extensive. Head sommelier Arnaud Dolmazon, formerly of the Fat Duck, has amassed an outstanding global selection of offbeat gems alongside vintage classics, and ensured that there’s plenty by the glass and carafe. It’s also worth noting the excellent-value, three-course Sunday lunch.