The Victoria

It may look like just another brick-fronted village pub, but the Victoria is a hostelry endowed with unusual flair and character. Inside, it’s smart but not showy, with lots of wood and heritage shades, although the fact that the place is now helmed by Simon King (a big name in hospitality) and chef Matt Larcombe (formerly at the Crown at Bray) gives notice this is a serious operation. Expect a combination of excellent service and high-quality food based on local and seasonal produce. Matt injects vivid flavours into his cooking, offering a menu that runs from pub classics (superb fish and triple-cooked chips) to mushroom parfait with sweet-and-sour onions, Herdwick lamb rump with caramelised sweetbreads, morels and broad beans or slow-cooked cauliflower with goat’s curd and kale. To finish, look for updated staples such as apple pie soufflé or a ‘Victoria’ sponge made with Yorkshire rhubarb. Matching the food is a well-spread wine list with a very decent selection by the glass. Locals have embraced the place wholeheartedly, especially as drinkers are welcome to congregate in the bar for pints of ale and nibbles (perhaps crispy pig's head or devils on horseback). Children are happily accommodated too, and Sunday lunch is booked up weeks in advance.

3 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence