The Pig at Harlyn Bay

This addition to the Pig Hotel collection is an imposing 15th-century building overlooking the waters of Harlyn Bay near Padstow. 'Rustic and relaxed' is an apt description. On arrival, you’ll pass the resident pigs and chickens, while inside all is 'fashionably shabby'. Reception has an open fire and forms part of the surrounding lounge area, a homely spot for chilling out. The open kitchen chimes perfectly with the rustic feel of the restaurant, which is spread across several rooms, creating an intimate setting. Most produce is sourced from within a 25-mile radius, some is home-grown, and the results could be summed up as follows: 'simple cooking, simple local ingredients, no fuss, great staff'. Our visit took in a 'very refreshing' chilled beetroot soup given heft with a dollop of horseradish cream followed by red mullet served with a sweet onion purée and crispy, salty ‘Mr Bartlett’s’ coppa, plus sides of Cornish new potatoes with wild-garlic salt and buttered garden greens. After that, a foraged elderflower jelly teamed with a Bacchus sorbet providing a light finish. British wines are championed on a list that opens at £33. In season, there's a popular lobster shed across the driveway in front of the hotel; here, visitors can tuck into flame-grilled steaks and seafood after a day at the beach.

2 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence