Blackfriars

1 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence

Dating from the early 13th century when it was the refectory for a Dominican friary, Blackfriars could be the UK’s oldest purpose-built dining room. It’s now part of a hospitality complex that includes a separate bar, a courtyard garden, a brewery, and a first-floor medieval banqueting hall popular with wedding receptions. The whole set-up is run by the Hooked On Group, which also owns local favourites Hinnies and Dobson & Parnell. Beams, wooden panelling and heavy furniture attempt to recreate Olde England in the ground-floor restaurant, yet there’s also a slight corporate vibe. The cheerful, efficient young staff all wear earpieces, awaiting direction, while an insistent soundtrack of beat-led pop jars with the surroundings, and the whole place seems geared up for large parties. The menu covers many bases, with modern British dishes given an international twist and plenty for vegetarians, including the North East’s own pan haggerty. The food varied markedly on our visit, kicking off with an excellent plump Lindisfarne oyster with mignonette dressing, and a freshly fried summer vegetable croquette matched with smooth pea velouté. To follow, a juicy and tender fillet steak, accompanied by prawn cocktail, creamy seafood bisque and an onion tart, was the high point, while overcooked nori-wrapped monkfish was best forgotten. For dessert, a dense Basque cheesecake was given an intense summery flavour with strawberry and basil compôte. Drinks are a forte, with a varied choice of cocktails, a global wine list and own-brewed beers (we enjoyed a refreshing glass of St Dominic’s Pale Ale). Blackfriars has many advocates, who praise its ‘stunning’ location, ‘courteous’ staff and ‘imaginative’ menu.