Adam Reid at The French

The ‘French' has played a leading role in Manchester's social history, along with the monumental railway hotel in which it is discreetly ensconced. As readers have noted, the Grade II-listed, oval dining room makes any meal feel like a special occasion. The mirrored, rococo interior remains darkly romantic and the high central booths provide a cocoon-like intimacy. The moodiness is relieved by a modern soundtrack, casual attired waiting staff and two outsize globular chandeliers, which counter any sense of dull melancholy or old-fashioned stuffiness. The modern Mancunian vision presented here by talented local boy Adam Reid is 'more relaxed and focused on folk having a good time'. A warm and friendly host, Reid emphasises that his multi-course offer (no option) is not a tasting menu but a 'set' one. Small plates, yes, but in a balanced order with thoughtful concepts and a streak of theatricality to enliven proceedings. Out with flambés and in with tableside assemblies such as a salad of Stichelton blue cheese, green apple, walnut, prune and celery – a carnivalesque interpretation of a conventional cheese course. Provenance is impeccable (as one might expect at this level), but one of the main characteristics of Reid’s menu is a playful sense of fun in his loving nod to regional traditions. It’s not childish, however, and dishes such as the standout ‘not an average cheese and onion pie’ with its starburst of flavour or the super-delectable ‘cold cut of honey-glazed ham, milk bread and mustard’ avoid whimsy in their sophisticated references to northern ‘teas’. The menu, divided into themed segments, never bored us – although a few dishes were a notch below others: ‘Cumbrian beef and horseradish on fried bread,’ for example, was overpowered by the pungent root. The cooking shows restraint while shining with flavour, whether delicate or punchy – as in butter-poached day-boat cod with Cheshire leeks and smoked roe sauce, or salt-aged Sladesdown Farm duck paired with stewed offal and cabbage pickle. There are two wine flights (alcoholic and non-alcoholic), otherwise consult the knowledgeable and helpful sommelier. To conclude, the now-famous tipsy cake with whipped cream comes laced with rum and served with cream and black tea (a pairing that works brilliantly). And alongside our espresso (from local ManCoCo roasters), there was a choc ice dusted with shards of Uncle Joe’s Mint Balls. As Mancunian songsmith Mike Harding's iconic theme song says, we left 'all aglow'.

4 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence