Zoilo

Although the counter seating by the downstairs kitchen is long gone, this slice of Argentina in Marylebone still conjures up a moody Buenos Aires hangout, complete with chequered floor tiles, red leather banquettes and stools at the bar. To begin, the focus is on gently deconstructed small plates and signature flavours – from the best-selling provoleta (baked provolone cheese slathered with oregano honey and almonds) to sea bream ceviche or warm green asparagus partnered by a soft-boiled egg, almonds ‘ajo blanco’ and bottarga di muggine (salted, pressed and dried grey mullet roe). After that, it’s all about hefty pampas-reared Argentinian steaks, including classic cuts such as bife ancho (ribeye), lomo (fillet) and asado (grilled flank, served with Roscoff onions, Taleggio cheese sauce and salsa verde). Alternatively, try a fish dish – perhaps grilled monkfish with braised white asparagus, a jamón-spiked ragoût of green peas and chicken jus. If you manage to make it to dessert and you’re not counting the calories, go for the warm cinnamon and rhubarb jam roll with spicy custard and Chantilly cream; otherwise, the ubiquitous dulce de leche turns up in a crème brûlée. House cocktails provide added temptation, and the all-Argentinian wine list dips into the country’s regional vineyards, with bottles from £32.

2 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence