The Ledbury

It’s hard to describe how big a deal The Ledbury was when it first opened in 2005. By creating a fun, relaxed atmosphere with prime seasonal produce as the star of the show, Brett Graham kickstarted a shift in the fine-dining scene. Now a London classic, it’s as persuasive as ever, still very much something to check off your list. Tom Spenceley interprets the Brett Graham style seamlessly, but what makes The Ledbury so special is the experience beyond the exceptional food. The service is outstanding, the room grand without being over the top, and everything they do – the luxury ingredients, the wine pouring, the chatting, the remarkable bread course, the parting gift – is manifestly generous. Is it pricey? Yes. The tasting menu is only slightly reduced in price and size for the twice-weekly lunch. It works best for a special occasion and could be your meal of the year. Our tip: The wine list is expensive but not entirely punishing. Drinking by the glass is painful; instead, look to the appealing bottles in the £50-£70 bracket. How to bag a table: Book well ahead (up to three months) to get the date and time you want. Or use OpenTable’s nifty ‘show next available’ tab, if you have more flexibility and don’t mind eating very early or late.

4 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence

Brett Graham’s flagship reopened in 2022 after a two-year hiatus caused by the pandemic. Much has changed, but the overall ethos at the Notting Hill restaurant remains the same: namely an obsession with top quality produce; a singular approach to cooking that blends classical and contemporary elements seamlessly together; and - perhaps most importantly - an unusually warm and flexible service style. First opened in 2005 when the Australia-born Graham was just 23 (he had excelled at Phil Howard’s The Square), The Ledbury soon became one of London’s most famous and in-demand dining rooms for both Londoners and visitors to the city. Part of the reason for the restaurant’s success and legendary status is that Graham keeps an unusually low profile for a chef of his calibre. He does no PR and rarely talks to the media, preferring to spend the vast majority of his time in the restaurant’s surprisingly cramped subterranean kitchen. Graham’s produce-led dishes arrive strikingly plated - there is arguably no chef in the capital with a more distinctive style on the plate - but, at the same time, there’s a refreshing down-to-earthiness to the cooking at The Ledbury, with the team always prioritising deliciousness over culinary showboating. All the ingredients are of extremely high quality, but Graham is particularly obsessive about his venison - in his spare time he runs a successful game business - and, more recently, mushrooms, which are grown on site in a moisture-controlled cabinet. In its new incarnation, the dining room has retained the same layout as the original save for a beautiful central service table, but the overall look is more moody, more modern and more in step with the restaurant’s level of ambition. In early 2024 the restaurant was awarded a third Michelin star. It can also once again add UK's Best Restaurant and Best Restaurant in England to its list of accolades, having previoulsy claimed the titles in 2010, 2011, and 2012.