The Chalk Freehouse

It's amazing how quickly the London restaurant scene can change. Before the obituary of Tom Kerridge's Butcher's Tap & Grill was published, the place was brought back to life as the Chalk Freehouse. It's still very much a pub where you can pop in for a drink, but the exterior has been painted white (and looks a lot better for it), and inside, the large TVs have been removed. The menu has been completely revamped and Kerridge is not mucking about this time: Tom De Keyser (ex-head chef at the Hand & Flowers) is leading the kitchen with a posher offering that might open with a bar snack of 'nduja and smoked mozzarella sausage roll (not to be missed) or a smooth, rich chicken and duck liver parfait 'churned to order' with poultry jelly, apricot chutney and toasted brioche – a Marlow classic. On our latest visit, a generous portion of pork chop schnitzel topped with golden fried duck's egg over a bed of smoked bacon and pickled cabbage was a piece of 'breadcrumb heaven'. We ended with a Chelsea bun (first made in the local area) topped wirh boozy fruits and praline and served with cold vanilla custard. Service has found its flow, although a little more charm wouldn't go amiss. To drink, there are a few cocktails and an extensive list of wines starting at £45 for a Grüner Veltliner, Christopher Bauer 2024, with plenty of glasses from £10. While the Butcher's Tap & Grill never quite captured the hearts of Chelsea locals, the Chalk is most definitely a few notches up.