Paulette

On a side street close to Warwick Avenue tube, this delightfully eccentric bistro ‘thrives off its community spirit’ and has all the trappings of a quirky dining room belonging to a rich, dotty aunt who has travelled the world. Inside, it's a mishmash of closely packed wooden tables and chairs (some covered in gingham tablecloths), antique lampshades, eye-catching floral patterned wallpaper, shelves of wine and a service bar decked out like a country-house kitchen. The place oozes natural charm and attentive staff will greet you like a long-lost friend, even if it’s your first visit. The resolutely French menu is executed with obvious care and skill, ‘bringing comfort and authenticity to every bite’. Baked Camembert, moules marinière and oysters mignonette figure among the openers, along with a signature tarte tatin of Roscoff onions with blue cheese and mascarpone cream. Main courses also whisk you off to France with the likes of confit duck and sauce bordelaise or fillet of trout with a pipérade of spring vegetables and mint pistou. Also look for Aubrey Allen's 'butcher's 'cut of the week' served with a special sauce. Even the skin-on fries (crisp, hot and salty, with mayo for dipping) are spot-on. Portions are generous, but do save room for one of their eye-catching desserts – perhaps lemon tart topped with a wave of blowtorched meringue or unctuous chocolate mousse studded with shiny caramelised hazelnuts and surrounded by a verdant pool of pistachio crème anglaise. They take their wine seriously here, with vintage Burgundies and Bordeaux at not-too-silly prices, plus Coravin selections and monthly in-house tastings. There's plenty of choice below £50 too, which helps to make Paulette a nigh-on perfect neighbourhood gem.