Donia

good quality, good value cooking

Filipino restaurants tend to be more more low-key and less prominent than, say, their Singaporean or Malaysian counterparts in the UK, but this ‘high-vis’ eatery from the people behind Mamasons ‘dirty ice cream’ and the Panadera Bakery in Kentish Town attempts to break the mould. Set on the top floor of Kingly Court, it’s a cosy, contemporary space with wooden beams, dark wood tables, colourful banquettes and craggy rock-shaped light fittings overhead. The laid-back ambience is helped along by young, chirpy staff. Expect a menu built around sharing plates, with flavours and textures criss-crossing China, South-East Asia, America and Spain – all commendably underpinned by British produce. Adobo, a popular Filipino seasoning, is given a twist to impart depth to golden-brown mushroom croquetas, which sit on a tiny mound of mushroom duxelles. Other openers range from smoky chicken heart skewers to superb prawn and pork siu mai topped off with crabmeat and served with a crustacean bisque lifted by a touch of lime. For something more substantial, try the caldereta pie, a terrific pithivier-like dish involving lamb shoulder enriched with a flavourful jus of chicken livers and tomato. As a sweet finale, we recommend the outsized choux bun filled with cold, creamy ube (purple yam) and coconut Chantilly. Overall, the food is on-trend without relinquishing its culinary roots, and the kitchen deserves plaudits for showing what can be achieved when creativity is applied to a less familiar cuisine. Cocktails (including low-alcohol options) are a reminder of sunny holidays near the equator; otherwise, two dozen wines offer value by the glass or bottle.