Cornus

High quality cooking

Joe Mercer-Nairne and David O'Connor (the duo behind Chelsea's much-lauded Medlar) recruited chef Gary Foulkes from Angler at the South Place Hotel with the aim of creating a smart, new destination venue in the traditionally less-than-inspiring neighbourhood between Belgravia and Victoria. The result is Cornus, located at the top of the Ice Factory development. Inside, the restaurant has been given a spare contemporary look, with minimalist decor, exposed lighting rails and a long marble-topped counter. A rare degree of polish transforms each dish into a virtuoso performance, and what arrives on the plate reliably exceeds expectations. An opening assemblage sets the tone: French tomatoes and Solliès figs with Ribblesdale soft goat's curd in fig-leaf vinaigrette offers bundles of savoury flavour and lactic tang, while pieces of chicken wing (intricately boned, stuffed and golden-roasted) arrive crisp and juicy, accompanied by a roasted chicken's heart, a powerful and silky mushroom purée, plentiful truffle shavings and an intense jus gras-like dressing. Fish is nothing short of majestic, witness red mullet in a potently rich bisque embellished with a quenelle of precision-tuned salsa verde and a single saffron-tinted potato. Game cookery is also exemplary, as in a juicy-textured wild duck breast presented on a crimson bed of stewed red cabbage and radicchio, plus beetroot purée and a sauce pointed up with green peppercorns. There has been some serious buzz around the pastry-chef, Kelly Cullen: should you need convincing, try her classic profiteroles filled with hazelnut ice cream and Chantilly, with hot chocolate sauce poured over at the table. For sheer quality and generosity, the three-course lunch deal (replete with incidentals) is tremendous value, and with Sussex Brut from Wiston Estate as the house fizz, the wine list makes its own statement of intent. Expect quality and imagination by the bushel, with glasses from £8.50 and extensive global reach among the premier-league bottles.