Cinder St John’s Wood

A fine neighbourhood restaurant in a quarter of affluent north London not over-endowed with gastronomic options, Cinder is very much the personal project of Jake Finn, a second larger outpost to go with the original in Belsize Park. Filled with happy natter, it's the kind of place that easily persuades locals not to eat in their PJs at weekends, but throw something on and step out into the wide world instead. A Josper flame oven is the heart of the operation, the menu working to the format of a fairly lengthy roster of small plates. Some grilled bread with garlicky tahini makes the most appetising start, ahead of one or two cold dishes full of sharply pointed seasoning. Spicy tuna ceviche with sweet potato and coriander or beetroots with feta will disappear like morning mist as soon as they hit the table. The condiment elements of each plate lift them into the realms of the memorable: Turkish Urfa chilli aïoli and red pepper relish laced with chilli oil accompany a trio of cod croquettes, while the satay-style purée of peanuts and cashews that came with our duck breast, red onions and lime leaves made a blackboard special truly special. Desserts play it safe with decent crème brûlée and baked cheesecake, or there could be freshly cooked doughnuts enriched with BBQ banoffee sauce. The short wine list just about covers enough ground, and there are inspired cocktails too.

2 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence