Inver

You might think you’ve drifted into some idyllic Highland dreamscape as you catch sight of this reconfigured 18th-century ferryman’s cottage by Loch Fyne, with its adjoining boatshed, ospreys swirling around and ancient castle ruins looming in the distance. Inver can have that effect on people – and no wonder, given the sheer tranquillity of the spot and the owners' dedication to the craft of gastronomy. Pam Brunton (chef) and Rob Latimer have conjured something truly harmonious, attuned to the locality and utilising its seasonal bounty in wondrous ways. Buzzwords such ‘sustainability’ and ‘zero waste’ really do mean something here – just consider Pam’s ‘bread and butter broth’ (leftover sourdough ends soaked in an umami-laden brew with home-churned brown butter and yeast). Many ingredients are from the local terrain, the waters beyond Inver’s door and from a helpful band of artisan producers – including a horticulturally inventive, green-fingered neighbour known only as Kate. You can sample some of these delights from the lunchtime carte (a procession of seafood and game dishes) but dinner is the main event – a tasting menu of (nominally) six courses plus four opening salvos served on a tray in the lounge (a plump oyster anointed with sea buckthorn oil or a zingy ceviche-style pairing of razor clams and rhubarb, for example). Bigger dishes positively explode with local flavours – from a pairing of Loch Fyne scallops and langoustine with purple sprouting broccoli, tiny crispy potatoes and a sea-herb emulsion finished with blackcurrant-leaf oil to a four-part serving of organic pork (loin, collar, belly, sausage) with a pile of shaved celery and some pickled alexanders. Desserts are generally untroubled by fancy patisserie – slices of poached pear with a walnut and ginger ice cream, for example. It sounds like perfection, although feedback suggests that this highly personal set-up works best when the owners are in residence, overseeing every detail and bringing their ‘pared-back passion’ to proceedings. Even so, this is still a compelling venture with the bonus of an enlightened kids’ menu, ‘fancy’ homemade cordials and a compact but resourceful wine list. Accommodation is in comfortably appointed bothies and shepherds' huts, with breakfast goodies on the doorstep come morning.

3 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence

Located in a former crofter’s cottage and boat store on the shores of Loch, Inver is an emphatic celebration of Scotland’s larder that displays great reverence to the provenance and quality of its local ingredients. Chef Pamela Brunton took over the running of the Inver with her husband Rob in the spring of 2015, and with their friends and family have built the sort of place they like to spend time. The cosy lounge-bar provides the setting for a pre-dinner craft ale or glass of natural wine and gives way to a vintage-style dining room that overlooks the Loch. The à la carte lunch and dinners menus feature fresh, simply prepared seafood, as well as native meat and game in season. A four-course tasting menu is also served in the evenings, which uses current cooking techniques and a combination of local, wild and farmed ingredients to offer a contemporary take on traditional and forgotten Scottish dishes. Brunton’s CV is weighty, and includes stints at revered, trend-setting establishments including Noma in Copenhagen; and Faviken in Jarpen, Sweden. Given that pedigree, it’s unsurprising that Inver bears the imprimatur of the New Nordic principles. Sustainability, in particular, is key, with Brunton focused on supporting and maintaining the ecosystem that surrounds her restaurant. It is this ecological commitment that led Inver to become one of the first to be awarded the new Michelin Green Star, which recognises sustainable gastronomy and distinguishes restaurants taking responsibility in the conversation of resources and the protection of biodiversity.