Bavette

good quality, good value cooking

‘Such a gorgeous local spot – so happy to have it not too far away,’ exclaimed a fan of Sandy Jarvis and Clément Cousin's convivial neighbourhood bistro in the Leeds suburb of Horsforth. Shelves of books on deep green walls create a smart domestic ambience, and the food does the rest. It's a Franco-Yorkshire alliance in every sense (M Cousin hails from Anjou on the Loire), and the menu reflects that collaborative spirit. Start with pork and prune pâté en croûte with the house mustard for an inimitably Gallic 'appetiser experience'. Starters might embrace light crab tartelette with fennel, pea shoots and saffron aïoli, before the speciality bavette makes an appearance, tricked out with French beans and frites – the kind of sturdy main course that won't let you down. The dessert list is, by and large, pure bistro French – perhaps St Emilion au chocolat or raspberry frangipane with matching sorbet. Wines delve into some of the less-trodden byways of France, from Jurançon Sec to the Cousin family's own Anjou Cabernet Franc and Grolleau Gris.

Sandy Jarvis and Clément Cousin swapped their London jobs working for other people for the chance to open their own place together in the pretty town of Horsforth in Leeds in 2024 and haven't looked back since. Taking over a former Pizza Express site, Bavette has been heavily influenced by the styles of London bistros including Racine and Terroirs, where Jarvis previous worked, serving traditional bistro fare in convivial surroundings. The menu kicks off with snacks such as baguette and house butter; comté cheese croquettes; and Cantabrian anchovies on toast, followed by house charcuterie; twice baked crab souffle with a bisque sauce; and steak tartare with pommes allumettes, as well as gnocchi a la Parisienne; and the eponymous bavette served with fries and a mixed leaf salad. The wine list is equally authentic and features wines made by Cousin's family vineyard, which has been producing wine in the Loire Valley for five generations. These wines follow organic and biodynamic principles and includes the Cuvee Bavette, a 2023 vintage cabernet franc. In terms of decor, the pair have kept things smart and simple with a wooden floor and spindle back chairs that are complemented by a long brown banquette seating, gilt mirrors and green walls.