Northcote

Like a stately galleon, Northcote serenely rides the choppy, changing waters of food fashion. This elegant restaurant with luxurious rooms was one of the first to stamp the hallmarks of 'modern British' cooking onto the Lancashire fine-dining foodscape. And after a change of ownership, those principles remain – overseen by the benevolent figure of Craig Bancroft (aka Mr B), the consummate host, who remains as MD. Confident in its ability to chart its own course, the Northcote kitchen is neither stuck in the past nor unduly influenced by metropolitan fads. Still under the personable executive command of Lisa Goodwin-Allen, the cooking is sophisticated but intelligently restrained. It pushes boundaries but with discretion. There remains a sense of ‘special occasion’, enhanced by a little tableside theatre, but the air of friendly Northern hospitality eschews pomposity and pretension; as ever, service is polished and properly paced. Smartly decorated in muted tones, the refined L-shaped dining room is designed for ease and comfort, while a fire still blazes in the entrance hall – as it has since the restaurant opened 40 years ago. Memorable tastes on our visit included dinky cheese and onion pies, a sparkling starter of spiced monkfish carpaccio, as finely textured as a silk stocking, dotted with pickled chilli, ‘hung’ yoghurt and fresh coriander, and rich, slow-cooked ox cheek bourguignon with smoked bacon and parsley that was treacly and tender enough to cut with a spoon. To finish, a feather-light blackcurrant soufflé with blackcurrant ice cream fulfilled Mr B’s promise that the choice would be well-advised. Wines from the top-class cellar are suggested to match each dish. Also note the roster of regional gins, whisky flights and cocktails made with homemade cordials and tinctures.

4 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence