Hjem

High quality cooking

To misquote Judy Garland, 'there’s no place like Hjem'. Meaning ‘home or place of belonging’ in both Northumbrian and Swedish, this restaurant's cooking, ingredients and style are confidently rooted across these two complementary cultures. It’s the Scandi-Northumberland dreamchild of couple Alex Nietosvuori and Alexandra Thompson – reflecting his personality and technical pedigree in the kitchen, and hers in the comfort and warmth front of house. A simple and cosy bar leads through to an airy, light-filled dining space with an additional garden room beyond. Views over the potager underscore their commitment to localism. Clean lines, pale woods and neutral colours are punctuated by the unabashed joy of seasonal hedgerow flowers. This understated environment offers a calm canvas for the visual and taste sensations emerging from the open kitchen: ‘arguably one of the best restaurants I have eaten at – well thought-through, interesting, delightful and, in some cases, truly sublime,’ enthused one reader. The tasting menu sets the scene with around six opening mouthfuls, each a mini masterpiece delivered in turn by one of the chefs – perhaps a rich lobster claw beignet with compressed chicken skin or a sliver of smoked eel with sharp Doddington cheese and pearlescent local lardo. Larger plates follow; two fish courses, two meat and then a seeming deluge of desserts. Humble mackerel is anointed with a flavour-laden crystalline tomato water and wafers of salted radish, while a tender but sumo-sized scallop is served simply in a vin jaune sauce cut with walnut oil. The kitchen hums. Huge steamers come out for a delicate chawanmushi (savoury Japanese custard) served with emerald baby broad beans and confit lamb belly, while a firebox provides the open flames to dramatically finish prime cuts from the gleaming meat safe. This is not a place to pop in for a quick bite and you certainly won’t leave hungry. Desserts stick with local ingredients: a striking horseradish sorbet brings freshness to a rich apple caramel and oat tuile, while a combo of soft rose ice cream, elderflower custard, strawberries and petalled meringue is like Eton mess in a cottage garden. Coffee and fika opens up a whole new seam of creativity. The sheer range of flavours and presentations could feel overwhelming but dishes and portion sizes are well-judged. The commitment to showcasing what lives and grows within reach of the picture-perfect village of Wall ensures a grounding in authenticity and resists the lure of unnecessary adornments. To accompany this culinary odyssey, sommelier Anna Frost has curated an extensive wine list reflecting personal passions, oenophile oddities and atypical producers at reasonable prices for a restaurant of this calibre. An unusually creative and extensive non-alcoholic range, including a matched tasting flight, recognises diverse needs and preferences. So click your ruby slippers and even if you don’t find the 'yellow brick road', you can rest assured that Hadrian left a very large edifice nearby.