Provender

‘Precise, interesting French-accented cooking’ combined with genial service and a chilled vibe is the winning formula at this spirited neighbourhood eatery in the heart of increasingly foodie Melrose. Inside, it feels calm, informal and airy, with an open pass, a thoughtfully laid-out dining room at the back, and owners who are prepared to go that extra mile for their customers: ‘you can tell they really love the local community,’ noted one regular. In the kitchen, finely honed French technique meets judiciously sourced Scottish produce, as in roast Borders lamb loin and crispy shoulder teamed with ratatouille, roasted potatoes and lamb jus or a pairing of North Sea cod and Orkney crab invigorated with coastal vegetables and sauce américaine. The menu also finds room for the likes of Catalan fish stew or gnocchi with a verdant assembly of asparagus, courgette, peas and basil, while the kitchen is happy to provide beer-battered haddock or cheeseburgers with house sauce and skinny fries for those who prefer to keep things staunchly traditional. The results are solid and flavoursome, rounded off with desserts such as raspberry and whisky cranachan or a warm sponge cake with chocolate brownie and crème anglaise. Readers also praise the terrific-value weekday lunches, and the offer of brunch goes down well with those who fancy kick-starting their day with a full Scottish, some French toast or a plate of truffled mushrooms Benedict. The short wine list has a decent showing of dependable international labels.