The Kitchin

High quality cooking

Tom Kitchin’s flagship has been solidly rooted in a converted whisky warehouse in Leith’s old docks since 2006 and is considered a mainstay of Edinburgh’s restaurant scene. That said, we were beginning to feel that it was becoming somewhat predictable (if not complacent), although a recent lunchtime visit showed a renewed sense of energy and vitality, combined with a desire to focus on this ‘jewel in the crown’ within the wider Kitchin portfolio. The dining room is intimate and relaxed, while a glazed wall allows guests a glimpse of the culinary theatre under the confident direction of head chef Lachlan Archibald – with Tom delivering regular cameos out front and at the pass. The generous set lunch is complemented by a series of tasting menus as well as a carte – all offering exceptional seasonal ingredients given the classical French treatment, but with strong Scottish overtones. Highlights of our meal ranged from a gutsy yet subtle venison carpaccio arranged on intensely flavoured bone-broth jelly and finished with hazelnuts, pickled sprout tops, Parmesan shavings and pickled wild garlic bulbs to intense, glossy braised beef shin with Café de Paris butter and pommes Pont-Neuf, the rich caramelised flavours offset by a blue cheese salad. Elsewhere, Hebridean lamb pithivier (slow-braised shoulder in a golden casing) displayed pretty pastry work, while morsels of rare rump were complemented by vibrant carrot variations spiked with Espelette pepper. Among the well-judged and grown-up desserts, our lemon soufflé (paired with local crème fraîche) was a towering temptation – almost criminal to deflate with a spoon. Service was spot-on. A comprehensive but never overwhelming wine list successfully balances classical and contemporary options, with a good range available by the glass and carafe.

5 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence

Edinburgh chef Tom Kitchin’s eponymous flagship restaurant has remained a constant beacon of quality in a Scottish restaurant scene that has improved markedly over the past two decades. Launched in 2006, for 20 years the restaurant has been the benchmark for high-end, seasonal dining in the city thanks to the immense skill of its chef-patron and his team and the bounty of top-class ingredients at its disposal. The Kitchin serves modern British cuisine influenced by French cooking techniques that Kitchin acquired while working with Gallic culinary greats Pierre Koffmann, Alain Ducasse and Guy Savoy. The best way to experience the restaurant is with its surprise tasting menu - a vegetarian and prestige option is also available - although a la carte options are also on offer. What won’t come as a surprise is the quality of ingredients on the plate, or the precise cooking techniques involved, with wagyu, turbot, veal sweetbreads, and scallops all likely to put in an appearance - his signature of boned and rolled pig’s head with roasted tail of west coast langoustine is also almost guaranteed to be on the menu. The wine list follows in a similar vein with a number of big hitting wines from Burgundy and Bordeaux among the 30-page selection and whisky lovers are equally well catered for with a vast selection that takes in Islay, the Highlands, Speyside, Cambeltown, the Lowlands and the islands.