Cardinal

There’s a sense of understated chic about Tomás Gormley’s neighbourhood restaurant, a companion to Skua in Stockbridge. Moodily done out in black, punctuated by orbs of golden light, a miscellany of abstract canvases, a few unclothed tables and a cool soundtrack, it’s ‘just a wee gem’. What Cardinal lacks in size it makes up for with really engaged service and Gormley’s understated, purposeful cooking, which fully exploits contrasting flavours and textures while obsessively playing off the seasons. To begin, a slug of roasted onion broth infused with Douglas fir and ‘very early’ wild garlic oil captured the theme, as did a single, stunning Carlingford oyster finished with beef tallow and tiny cubes of gherkin (for a light acidic tang). A composition of tender nuggets of smoked Belhaven lobster and pink fir potato was equally memorable, lushly blanketed under a creamy lobster bisque that offered just a hint of chilli heat. That hint of heat came through again in the jammy blueberry and black peppercorn sauce served with a glorious Hopeton venison tataki, while there was more welcome acidity – from slivers of red onion – in a rich cheese dipping sauce accompanying a mini-loaf of fluffy challah-style milk bread. On point, too, was the homemade brown sauce served with a sausage roll that topped off our flavourful savoury finale of mangalitza pork ribeye with sauerkraut, Pommery mustard and fennel. This is very good cooking – at £95 for the short tasting menu or £120 for the full works, it ought to be. But with wine pairings more or less de rigueur (there is a very limited by-the-glass choice), the ensuing bill catapults Cardinal into the ‘destination restaurant’ bracket, which is slightly at odds with its charming low-key vibe and neighbourhood setting. That said, it feels like the sort of place you would want to visit regularly if you lived in the area, especially as the three-course set lunch (Wednesday and Thursday only) has a more manageable price tag.