Bowleys at The Plough

In the village of Trottiscliffe (pronounced ‘Tros-sley’) on the edge of the North Downs, the family-run, community-owned Plough is something of an oasis in a ’foodie desert’ hereabouts. The place still fulfils its brief as a pub, with pints of ale, snacks and small plates attracting a loyal crowd in the snug little bar, although the venue now stakes its reputation on Bowleys – a seperate dining room specialising in seasonal fine dining founded on local and regional produce. Expect to pay handsomely if you order from the carte or one of the tasting menus, where the repertoire might run from Dorset crab bouillabaisse to rack and saddle of lamb with calçot onion, pine nuts and cider. However, if you are looking for value, opt for the fixed-price two/three-course lunch deal. To start, a serving of spelt ‘risotto’ with butternut squash and local goat’s cheese flavoured with lemon and fried sage leaves was more accomplished than a rather chewy dish of artichoke agnolotti with sherry and salsa verde (more style than substance here). Mains were skilfully rendered, from supremely fresh, properly seasoned chalkstream trout with hot tartare sauce to moist corn-fed chicken breast with sage stuffing (served separately), baby leeks and a richly flavoured chicken velouté. To finish, the set menu has just one dessert or British cheese, although there is more choice on the carte (Cox’s apple with pear, honey and marigold, for example). We found the service somewhat robotic and impersonal, although staff are often assisted by chefs who help to describe the dishes on offer. The creditable wine list has a decent choice by the glass or carafe.

2 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence