Galvin Green Man

good quality, good value cooking

Palatial grand dining in the capital is the principal string to the Galvin brothers' bow, so it's inspiring to find they can also make a good fist of running a traditional village pub (the roots of the Green Man extend back as far as the reign of Edward III). Situated in a hamlet not far from Great Waltham, it's sufficiently ensconced within the locale to have a stretch of the river Chelmer running through its beer garden, and has been smartly done out inside, with a whole suite of dining rooms to choose from. Chris Ball offers a contemporary British pub menu with a versatile choice, and his dishes are inventive without feeling overworked. Start with a ceviche of sea trout and bass, dressed in lime and chilli with avruga caviar, or opt for a hearty, silky soup such as marrow and red pepper velouté with toasted sourdough. A locally supplied kitchen is always good to find, especially in the game season, when Great Waltham partridge might turn up with beetroot, pickled blackberries and rainbow chard in a concentrated jus, while lively vegetarian dishes have included miso-glazed aubergine with charred spring onion, harissa potatoes and cumin yoghurt. Desserts mobilise all the treat sweetness you can handle, with treacle sponge and vanilla cream, coffee panna cotta with popcorn and caramelised banana, or Valrhona chocolate mousse textured with puffed wild rice. An impressive drinks list embraces racy cocktails, a decent spread of wines by the glass, and, er, cigars.

2 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence